Deciding
what regions, cities and attractions to visit whilst travelling in
Argentina will be hard as it offers such diverse geography: snow,
desert, lakes and an endless coastline. Whatever you do, allow more
time than you think you'll need. Unless you have unlimited time and
money, you probably have to accept from the start that you can't see it
all. Distances are huge, and it's time consuming to get around. There
are daily flights to all the major destinations but most go via Buenos
Aires, so travelling between the north and the south, for example, will
take a full day out of your itinerary. Although there are few trains in
Argentina, there is an efficient and extensive network of long-distance
buses, which even offer complimentary hot meals. So rather than just
ticking places off your list on a relentless itinerary, allow at least
couple of days free in each place if you can, and don't
try to do too much. It's much more satisfying to explore one area in
real depth than to dart about all over the country in one week.
Buenos
Aires is a great first port of call, whether you want to see the
football, try tango or shop till you drop. Chic Palermo Viejo is the
place for cool restaurants and new design, San Telmo with its cobbled
streets is one of the oldest neighbourhoods, and the delta river system
just north of the city is a calm retreat of houses on stilts. From
there you can head south to the wilds of Patagonia. Whether escaping
like Butch and Sundance, or seeking freedom like the Welsh pioneers,
you'll find a liberating expanse of nothing. Head east to Puerto Madryn
for amazing marine life or travel the solitary Ruta 40 in Ernesto 'Che'
Guevara's tyre tracks. From windy El Calafate, cross an iceberg-strewn
lake for breathtaking views of the southern ice field, and later
attempt an ice trek on Glacier Perito Moreno. Further south, Tierra del
Fuego offers the ultimate wilderness and, as you take a boat trip along
the Beagle Channel, you'll feel like a true explorer. From there you
can follow the Argentine Andes northwards as they stretch along a
wonderland of snow-capped mountains, dotted with lakes and lagoons of
all shades of blue.
Start at picturesque Bariloche: chalet-style
hotels, chocolate shops and a backdrop of peaks, where you could hike
for a week without getting bored. A little way along the Seven Lakes
Drive, is the upmarket San Martín de los Andes or smaller Villa La
Angostura. Hide out in an
estancia
to ride the
wild lands, or go whitewater rafting into Chile. Discover quiet Villa
Pehuenia, set amidst forests of silent monkey puzzle trees, or fish for
giant trout at Junín de los Andes. Head south to laid-back El Bolsón
for superb hiking along crystalline rivers, catch the Old Patagonian
Express into the hills, or hike into the pristine forests of Los
Alerces. The northwest is another Argentina, of rich indigenous culture
and ancient civilizations, with ruined cities at Quilmes, Las Pailas,
El Shinkal and Tastil. Explore the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a vast red
gorge dotted with quaint oasis villages near the border with Bolivia,
or the timeless Valles Calchaquíes, where high-altitude wine is grown
in dramatic rugged landscapes. Colourful Salta's colonial splendour
contrasts perfectly with the culture of the
puna
,
where Pachamama festivities are a glimpse of another time. Admire the
colonial churches and Jesuit missions of Córdoba or, for wine lovers,
Mendoza has superb bodegas stretching out to a backdrop of the Andes,
and excellent hiking for serious mountaineers.
Finally
the lush northwest, which boasts the country's star attraction: Iguazú
Falls. Constant and stunning, the falls should not be missed. Heading
south, explore the Jesuit mission ruins hidden by the thick jungle, or
relax in a lodge in the Esteros del Iberá wetlands, a paradise for
birds.
This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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