Río Gallegos

The capital of Santa Cruz province lies on the estuary of the Río Gallegos (pronounced rio ga-shay-gos), the river famous for its excellent brown trout fishing. It's a pleasant, airy town, founded in 1885 as a centre for the trade in wool and sheepskins, and is by far the most appealing of the main centres on Patagonia's southern Atlantic Coast.

Sights

The tidy, leafy Plaza San Martín, two blocks south of the main street, Avenida Roca, has an interesting collection of trees, many planted by the early pioneers, and a diminutive corrugated iron cathedral, with a wood-panelled ceiling in the chancel and stained glass windows. The best of the town's museums is the small Museo de los Pioneros Set in a house built in England and shipped here in 1890, there are interesting photographs and artefacts telling the story of the first Scottish settlers, who came here in 1884 from the Falklands/Malvinas Islands, by government grants of land. There's an interesting tour given by the English-speaking owner, a descendent of the Scottish pioneers, and great photos of those first sheep- farming settlers. There's work by local artists at Museo de Arte Eduardo Minichell. There's Museo Regional Provincial Manuel José Molina, in the Complejo Cultural Santa Cruz, with some dull rocks and fossils and a couple of dusty dinosaur skeletons.

Around Río Gallegos

Reserva Provincial Cabo Vírgenesientry is a nature reserve protecting the second largest colony of Magellanic penguins in Patagonia. There's an informative self-guided walk to see their nests amongst the calafateand fragrant mata verdebushes. It's good to visit from November to January, when chicks are born and there are nests under every bush. Fascinating for anyone, and wonderful for children. You can climb the Cabo Vírgenes lighthouse (owned by the Argentine Navy) for wonderful views. South of Cabo Vírgenes are the ruins of Nombre de Jesús, one of the two settlements founded by Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa in 1584 and where, tragically, all its settlers died.

Estancia Monte Dinero, www.montedinero.com.ar, 13 km north of Cabo Vírgenes, is a wonderful base for visiting the reserve. It is a working sheep farm, where the English-speaking Fenton family offers accommodation, food and excursions; all excellent.