Puerto Deseado

Puerto Deseado is a pleasant fishing port on the estuary of the Río Deseado, which drains, curiously, into Lago Buenos Aires in the west. It's a stunning stretch of coastline, and the estuary has a wonderful nature reserve, Ría Deseado, with Magellanic penguins and several species of cormorants among its inhabitants; as well as being the breeding grounds of Commerson's dolphin. Within reach are more reserves, protecting sea lions and penguins. The Museo Regional Mario Brozoski, has remains of an 18th-century ship that sank off the coast here in 1770, as well as some evocative photos. Outside the former railway station, a rather fine old building, in vaguely English medieval style, is the Vagón Histórico, an 1898 carriage now used as the tourist office.

The Reserva Natural Ría Deseado, the submerged estuary (ría) of the Río Deseado, 42 km long, is an important nature reserve, and a stunning area to visit. Among many varieties of seabird, there's a colony of Magellanic penguins, and the crumbling chalky cliffs, mauve and ochre, splattered with guano(droppings), are home to four species of cormorants including the unique red-legged cormorant, most appealing with their smart dinner-jacketed appearance. These birds nest from October to April in four islands off the shores. The reserve is also the breeding grounds of Commerson's dolphins, beautiful creatures, who frolic playfully around your boat.

North of Puerto Deseado, some 90 km on the northern shore of the peninsula, is Cabo Blanco, the site of the largest fur seal colony in Patagonia. It's another magnificent area, a rocky peninsula bursting out from flat lands, with one of the oldest lighthouses on the coast perched on top, and thousands of seals perched on the rocks below. The breeding season is December to January. A little further west, you should also visit Reserva Cañadón de Duraznilloin the estanciaof La Madrugada. Here you'll see lots of guanacos, ñandues, foxes and birds, as well as the largest seal colony in the province on spectacular unspoilt beaches. The estanciais a great place to visit or stay .

South of Puerto Deseado are two more reserves; Isla Pingüino, an offshore island with a colony of Magellanic penguins, as well as cormorants and steamer ducks, and the Reserva Natural Bahía Laura, an uninhabited bay where black-necked cormorants, ducks and other seabirds can be found in abundance. Isla Pingüino can be reached by boat, and Bahía Laura, by ripio and dirt roads. 

The Gruta de Lourdes, 24 km west, is a cave which attracts pilgrims to see the Virgen de Lourdes. Further south along the same road is the Cañadón del Puerto, a mirador offering fine views over the estuary.