Parque Nacional Perito Moreno

Situated southwest of Bajo Caracoles on the Chilean border, this is one of the wildest and most remote parks in Argentina. There is good trekking and abundant wildlife among this large, interconnected system of lakes, lying between glaciated peaks of astonishing beauty.

However, since much of the park is dedicated to scientific study, it's largely inaccessible.

, in the park's centre, is the biggest in the chain of lakes, a

vivid turquoise, contrasting with surrounding mountains streaked with a mass of differing

colours; on its shores, you might find ammonite fossils.

Just outside the park, but towering over it to the north is

(3706 m), the highest peak in southern Patagonia. Between the lakes are other peaks, permanently snow-covered, the highest of which is Cerro Herros (2770 m). The vivid hues of Sierra Colorada runs across the northeast of the park: it's erosion of these coloured rocks that has given the lakes their differing colours. At the foot of Cerro Casa de Piedra is a network of caves containing cave paintings, accessible only with a guide. Wildlife in the park includes guanacos, foxes and one of the most important surviving populations of the rare huemul deer. Birds include flamingos, ñandus, steamer ducks, grebes, black-necked swans, Patagonian woodpeckers, eagles and condors. The lakes and rivers are unusual for Argentina in that only native species of fish are found here, whereas in the rest of the country, trout and salmon have been introduced for fishing.

Several good hikes are possible from here. There are also longer walks of up to five days. Ask the

for details, and see the website.