Colonia Sarmiento and the petrified forests

The vital east-west road link between Chile and the Atlantic is Route 26, also known as the Bioceanic Corridor, which runs east from the Andes across the steppe amid oil wells, from the Chilean border and the Chilean towns of Coyhaique and Puerto Aisén to Comodoro Rivadavia. Mainly used by lorries, it gives access to two unusual sights - the petrified araucaria forests of José Ormachea and Héctor Szlapelis, both within easy reach of the small town Colonia Sarmiento.

Sarmiento lies on the Río Senguer just south of two great lakes and 156 km west of Comodoro Rivadavia, Lago Mustersand Lago Colhué Huapi, both of which offer good fishing in summer. Founded in 1897 and formally known as Colonia Sarmiento, its early settlers were Welsh, Lithuanians and Boers. It's a quiet and relaxed place, sitting in fertile, well irrigated land, and little visited by tourists, though it's the best base for visiting two areas of petrified forest nearby. Most accessible is the Bosque Petrificado José OrmacheaIUS$3, 32 km south along a ripioroad. Less easy to reach is the rather bleaker Bosque Petrificado Héctor Szlápelis, some 40 km further southwest along the same road (follow signposts, the road from Sarmiento is in good condition). These forests, 60 million years old, of fallen araucaria trees nearly 3 m in circumference and 15 to 20 m long, are a remarkable sight, best visited in summer as the winters are very cold. There are guardaparques(rangers) at both sites, who can give tours and information.