San Rafael

San Rafael is a charming, quiet, airy town in the heart of fertile land which produces wine, fruit and olives in abundance. It's a relaxed place, smaller and less sophisticated than Mendoza but with a good range of accommodation. It makes an ideal base for exploring the vineyards and for trying adventure sports at nearby Cañón del Atuel or more challenging activities further west. There are lovely, leafy boulevards of French-influenced buildings, thanks to the arrival of a significant French community here in the early 1900s, and it's a trim and well-maintained place, where everyone cycles around - there are more bicycles than cars on the streets.

Sights

Río Diamante runs just south of the town, with a lovely park, Parque Mariano Moreno, 2 km from the centre, on an island, the Isla del Río Diamante. Among its attractions are a zoo and a small museum, the Museo Municipal de Historia Natural. San Rafael is at the heart of an important wine- producing region, whose wines are at least as excellent as those around Mendoza. One of the country's most important bodegas is Bianchi www.vbianchi.com, which can be visited on a commercialized tour.

The Bianch champagne house is also worth seeing for the fascinating process and rather over-the-top pseudo-classical building. Their more traditional bodega is in town, at the corner of Comandante Torres y Ortiz de Rosas, and also gives an excellent and detailed tour, and sells the top wines at reduced prices after a generous tasting. There's a smaller, more intimate bodega Jean Rivier, which also produces excellent wine.

Around San Rafael

San Rafael is a great centre for all kinds of activities including rafting, horse riding, trekking, climbing and fishing. The most spectacular place for adventure is the nearby Cañón del Atuel, 35 km southwest. There are constantly changing views and an eerie feel in places, in the darker recesses of the canyon, where birds of prey wheel overhead. The gorge lies between two lakes, 46 km apart, El Nihuil (9600 ha), and Valle Grande (508 ha). The best place for rafting is near Valle Grande.

Lago Los Reyunosis another popular excursion, 35 km west of San Rafael, a lake in barren rocky landscape, which can only be reached on a tour, as there are no buses. But far more spectacular is the Laguna Diamante, 200 km northwest of San Rafael, an ultramarine blue expanse of water, whipped by perpetual winds, set against the craggy backdrop of the Andes and the perfectly conical Volcán Maipo. There is some superb horse riding in the region into the Andes. You could take an excursion from El Sosneado or Tupungato to the place where the Uruguayan plane crashed into the mountains, subject of the book and film Alive! . This is less gruesome than you might think, since the landscapes are amazing: stark and very beautiful. Laguna del Atuel, 200 km west of San Rafael, has incredible turquoise water lapping against ochre mountains, and makes for another fabulous five-day horse riding trip.