Malargüe

Malargüe (1426 m) is slowly developing as a centre for hiking and horse riding. It promotes itself rather grandly as the national centre for adventure tourism. The best time to come is from spring to autumn, when you can make the most of the landscape for walking and riding. The Fiesta Nacional del Chivo (locally produced kid, a local delicacy) is held in the first fortnight of January, with live music and partying, attracting national folclorestars, as well as Chilean performers and public from across the Andes. There is a helpful tourist  www.malargue. gov.ar.

Around Malargüe

The wild untouched landscape around Malargüe is surprising and extraordinarily beautiful. There are three main places to visit, all pretty remote and with no public transport, so unless you have your own vehicle, they can only be visited on a tour. Even if you do have your own transport, you must be accompanied by an authorized guide, which must be arranged in advance and which requires a certain amount of planning.

La Payunia Reserve, 208 km south, is the most remarkable of the three, and dominated by the majestic peaks of several snow-capped volcanoes. The vast expanse of seductive altiplanic grasslands is ridden with volcanic peaks, and deep red and black crags of extraordinary sculpted lava. The appearance of hundreds of guanaco running wild across your path adds to the magic. You can bring your own vehicle here and the guardaparques will show you around in their 4WD. The best way to enjoy the reserve is on horseback, on a three-day expedition or you can take a tour from Malargüe with Karen Traveli www.karentravel.com.ar.

The Laguna Llancanelo (pronounced shancannello), 65 km southeast, is filled with hugely varied birdlife in spring, when 150 species come to nest on its lakes. At any time of year you'll see Chilean flamingos, rising in a pink cloud from pale turquoise waters where volcanic peaks are perfectly reflected. You may also see tern, curlews, grebes, teal and black-necked swans, among others.

At Caverna de las Brujas there are 5 km of underground caves to explore, taking you through different eras of the earth's development from the Jurassic period onwards, and a fantastic variety of elaborate stalactites and stalagmites. There is no independent access to the caves, and all visits must be arranged with one of the authorized tour operators in Malargüe.