Zona Alta del Río Mendoza
The area immediately to the south of Mendoza city, around the sprawling centres of Maipú and Luján de Cuyo, contains the oldest and some of the most famous vineyards in the province, producing wines with a high concentration of fruit. Malbec, particularly, thrives here, in altitudes between 650 and 1050 m, and it's said that although the grape was brought from France, it is in Argentina that it's found its real home, and in Zona Alta del Río Mendoza that it's at its best. Winegrowing styles are eclectic in the various vineyards here, but this area produces premium wines, thanks to the unique combination of soil and climate. Other grape varieties grown here are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Syrah and Tempranillo. This is the closest region to the city of Mendoza, and easily visited in a few hours. But since the wineries are spread out along pretty country roads, with few signs to guide you, it's worth taking a map, and contacting the bodegas ahead of your visit.
Escorihuela
Tourist information at www.escorihuela.com.ar.
It's worth stopping to visit one of the most famous bodegas in the country, in the suburb of Godoy Cruz. The closest winery to the city is the historical Escorihuela. Founded in 1884 by Spanish immigrants, it retains its traditional atmosphere in the original buildings. They export wine to the UK under the Gascón label and still produce Pont L'Eveque, which was Perón's favourite brand. The winery is only about 20 blocks south of the centre, five minutes away by taxi, or easily reached by all buses going south along Avenida San Martín. Belgrano runs parallel to Avenida San Martín, one block east. Escorihuela also has an excellent and expensive restaurant, 1884 Francis Mallmanwith a superb menu - the perfect complement to the bodegas fine wines, and run by the famous chef Francis Mallman. The stunning centrepiece of your tour is in the cellars, where there's an ornately carved barrel from Nancy, France. If your Spanish isn't strong, you might like to visit this bodega before the others for its helpful brochure explaining the whole process in pictures!
Maipú
The satellite town of Maipú sprawls immediately southeast of Mendoza.
If you've only time for one bodega, make it La Rural www.bodegalarural.com.ar . This is a large traditional bodega founded in 1885 by Felipe Rutini, which has been modernized recently with the latest technology allowing it to bottle 6000 units per hour. This bodega is renowned not only for its excellent wines but also for the marvellous Museo Nacional del where you can see the history of winemaking through an amazing display of implements dating back to the pre-Colombian skin of an entire cow, where grapes were trodden in the belly so that juice flowed out of its neck.
Quite a long way east of Maipú town centre is the large and highly developed Familia Zuccardi winery www.familiazuccardi.com.This is an exceptionally welcoming winery with a good restaurant, extensive wine tasting, a tea room, and occasional music concerts on offer. Anyone wanting to pick grapes during the harvest is always welcome, and cookery lessons are available with the restaurant's chef.
There are also several wineries in Coquimbito district, immediately east of Maipú. Two smaller family-owned wineries, both delightful for a visit, lie very close to each other. Tempus Alba www.tempusalba.com a modern bodega where the Biondolillo family takes great pride in their attention to detail and are happy to share it with you. Viña El www.elcerno.com.ar, has a lovely country house, a restaurant and olive groves. Founded in 1887, the historic bodega of Inti Huaco www.bodegaintihuaco.com elegant mid-range rooms coming off a central courtyard in beautiful surroundings.
Another charming, small and welcoming winery is the French-owned Carinae www.carinaevinos. com, daily 1000-1800. As the name might suggest, wines aren't the only passion of Philippe and Brigitte, but astronomy too. They have an interesting collection of telescopes, which you can use.
Luján de Cuyo
Southwest of Maipú, Luján de Cuyois another wine producing area in whose leafy suburb, Chacras de Coria, you'll also find restaurants and small hotels. For information, contact the local tourist office www.lujandecuyo.gov.ar.
The large and impressively modern Mayan-pyramid like bodega, Catena Zapata www.catenawines.com, is in one of the most beautiful settings in the region. It's owned by a traditional family who produce outstanding wines that are exported under the names Catena Alta, Álamos, Nicolás Catena Zapata and Catena. There is a restaurant too. Another large, modern bodega with fantastic mountain views is Séptima www.bodega septima.com.ar.
There are now several wineries which offer accommodation, but the most famous and deservedly popular is the exquisite Tapiz www.tapiz.com, a small winery that owns a fincain Luján de Cuyo. There's a restored 1890s main house, beautifully decorated with impeccable taste, which is the region's most exclusive hotel and has one of the finest restaurants in Mendoza.
A smaller winery, but also highly developed, Carlos Pulenta-Vistalba www.carlospulenta wines.com, is renowned for its marvellous Vistalba wines and for having on its ultra-modern premises, La Bourgogne, one of the best restaurants east of the Andes.
The Malbec grape flourishes wonderfully at Renacer www.bodegarenacer.com.ar, which produces Punto Final Reserva, one of the top Argentine Malbec wines. Quite close to here, you'll find Achával Ferrer www.achaval-ferrer.com.A young, modern and repeatedly prize-winning boutique bodega which produces the finest quality red wines, including the great Finca Altamira. El Lagar de Carmelo Patti is highly recommended for its welcoming owner, who personally leads the tours, and takes pride in serving his excellent Cabernet Sauvignon or his Gran Assemblage for tasting, even straight from the barrel. Spanish only.
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