Western La Rioja

Western La Rioja is remote and undiscovered, but you might want to visit to base yourself

in the town of La Unión for Talampaya park, or to visit the strange otherworldly landscapes

of the Reserva Natural Laguna Brava. The westernmost inhabited valley in La Rioja (also known as Valle del Bermejo) follows the

which flows along the western side of the Sierra de Famatina. The valley can be reached from La Rioja city along Route 26 via the Parque Nacional Talampaya, or from Chilecito by Ruta 40, via the spectacular

.

Some 92 km west of Nonogasta, Villa Unión (1240 m) is the largest settlement in the valley and is another base for visits to the Parque Nacional Talampaya, 67 km south. North of Villa Unión, paved Route 76 heads along the arid valley to

and

(70 km north of Villa Unión) offering the last comfortable accommodation option before the high mountains (

),

.

An extraordinary testament to ancient cultures, on the west side of Route 76, on the northern outskirts of town, there is the

, the only surviving star- shaped stone mosaic made by ancient settlers centuries ago. Immediately north of Vinchina, Route 76 enters the spectacular

and 36 km northwest of Vinchina, it reaches

(1900 m), with food and basic facilities, and where you will be approached by park wardens of the nearby Reserva Natural Laguna Brava . This is the starting point for a 154 km long road to Chile through the Andean mountain pass of

(4165 m). About every 20 to 30 km you'll see stone huts, built in the 19th century to shelter cattle wranglers on their way across the Andes. The road gives also access to a vast, empty territory of the

.

This reserve protects Laguna Brava, a salt lake, 4271 m, 16 km long, 3 km wide, and some 405,000 ha of mountains and a high plateau, rising from 3800 m to 4360 m. The lake lies further northwest beyond the Portezuelo del Peñón, with superb views over the lake, and some of the mightiest volcanoes on earth in the background. From the left, these are: the perfect cone

(6436 m),

(6335 m),

(6130 m),

(6882 m) the highest volcano in the world, though inactive, and

(6759 m) which is also visible from Villa Unión and Talampaya. The park is home to thousands of flamingos and

, the more elegant cousins of the llama. There are many organized 4WD tours on offer here, which take you to the high plateau, the Laguna Brava itself and occasionally, the small lagoon Corona del Inca lying at the crater of a volcano at 5300 m . The nearest settlement is Jagüe, at the western end of Route 76, and

from here, 4WD or mountain bike are essential to enter the park. The nearest accommodation

is at Villa Unión. Access is limited by summer rainfall and winter snow, so the best times for a visit are April and early May.