Mendoza to Upsallata

There are two ways to reach Uspallata from Mendoza, both offering great views. Most dramatic is the climb north via many hairpin bends past the (abandoned) spa resort of Villavicencio (104 km, of which 52 km is on unpaved roads), or alternatively, you can head south from Mendoza to pleasant Potrerillos (102 km, all paved roads) and take a short detour to the thermal springs at Cacheuta.

Villavicencio

Famous to all Argentines from the image of its Alpine-style 1940s hotel seen on bottles of the ubiquitous mineral water, Villavicencio (1800 m) is reached by a wonderful drive. From Mendoza, head north across flat plains growing nothing but scrubbyjarillabushes, and following the pre-cordilleramountains on your left. The road rises steeply to climb through thickly forested mountains to the beautiful old spa resort, closed for many years, and now the centre of its own little nature reserve - a good place for a picnic and a stroll. The reserve protects the sources of mineral water and the whole area is owned by the French company Danone, who run a smart information centre on the local wildlife and employ guardaparqueswho can direct you to nearby walks. You can also stroll around the splendid grounds of the hotel, visit its chapel and eat at the Hostería Villavicencioi, run by a friendly local family who offer good value lunches and teas with fine local produce such as jamón crudo(prosciutto) and chivo(goat), which you can enjoy at tables outside.

Beyond Villavicencio the ripio road climbs up over the spectacular Cruz de Paramillo, via Caracoles de Villavicencio, the many (allegedly 365) hairpin bends which give the road its name La Ruta del Año(Route of the Year). At an altitude of 3050 m there are breathtaking views all around, and this is a marvellous introduction to the vast peaks of Aconcagua, Tupungato and Mercedario. Descending to the fertile valley of Uspallata, there are rocks popping up like jagged teeth through the earth, in extraordinary colours from aubergine through to oxidized copper green, orange and creamy white.

Cacheuta

An alternative route to Uspallata and into the Andes is via the pretty villages of Cacheuta and Portrerillos, offering thermal spa and watersports respectively. If you're driving, note that since the river has been dammed there is no direct road between Cacheuta (1245 m) and Potrerillos, so you need to take a detour to get to Cacheuta. From Mendoza, head south out of the city by Avenida J Vicente Zapata, access Route 7, leading to Ruta 40. Follow signs to Cacheuta, passing the area's biggest petrochemical plant, before you climb up into the hills. Cacheuta's pretty setting in a narrow valley merits the extra journey to reach it. There's a huge complex of several thermal pools where you can spend a day, and next to this, a fine hotel in attractive gardens with a good restaurant. It's better to stay at least a night to really enjoy the mountain scenery.

Potrerillos

Potrerillos (1354 m), just 10 km further on from Cacheuta, is a charming, laid-back village sprawling among the foothills of the Cordón del Plata mountains. In the summer it's a popular retreat among Mendocinos, but it's excellent for a weekend's walking or horse riding at any time of year, though particularly lovely in spring, or in autumn, when the avenues of alamo trees are a rich yellow against the mauve haze of mountains beyond. From December to February, you can go rafting and kayaking on Río Mendoza, which runs through the valley below the village. The water level depends on the time of year and the amount of snow melt swelling the river, so that the high season varies from year to year. In summer you can hike from Potrerillos to Vallecitos over two days. There's also a lovely walk to Cascada del Salto, but the path isn't marked, so take a guide .

From Potrerillos' centre - where there's little more than a hotel, campsite and YPF station on a crossroads - you could take the road south up to Vallecitos via the little hamlets of El Salto, Las Vegas and San Jorge, with its small cervecería (microbrewery). There are parrilla restaurants, tea rooms and lots of cabañasfor hire around these areas, and the views are wonderful.

Vallecitos

This tiny hamlet (2900 m) is 27 km west of Potrerillos along a madly winding ripioroad, certainly not to be attempted in poor weather conditions. There's little here apart from a couple of refugios with hostel accommodation and a rather basic family ski resort, but it's popular as a day trip from Mendoza. The ski centre www.skivallecitos.com has 4.7 km of pistes, mostly intermediate standard, seven ski lifts and a ski school. Vallecitos is used as a base camp by climbers for training in the nearby peaks, before attempting Aconcagua. Contact Expediciones El Plata to take part in a climbing expedition to the beautiful summits of the Cordón del Plata range. They're less well known than Aconcagua, but also spectacular.

Uspallata

The picturesque village of Uspallata (1751 m) lies in its own wide valley, very close to the high Andes and so it's become a popular stopping point on the road to Chile. All routes pass through it, and yet it has retained a rather charming unspoilt atmosphere - out of peak season at least. With distant mountains glimpsed through a frame of álamo (poplar) trees, it is reminiscent of the Himalayas and was the setting for Seven Years in Tibet. Stay for a day at least to explore the mysterious white egg-shaped domes of Las built by the indigenous Huarpes people, under instruction by the Jesuits, to melt silver. There is a small, interesting museum.

From Uspallata, the Route Provincial 39 leads north to Calingastaand Barreal, unpaved for its first part and tricky when the snow melt floods it in summer. Here you'll find the remains of the Inca road, one of the most important archaeological sites in the region, with foundations of an Inca Tambo (post house) too.