Pehuenia

The magical and unspoilt area of Pehuenia is named after the country's unique forests of pehuéntrees, which grow here in vast numbers. Covering a marvellous open mountainous landscape, these ancient, silent trees create a mystical atmosphere, especially around the lakes of Aluminé and Moquehue, where a pair of small villages provide good accommodation. Villa Pehuenia is the best set up for tourism, with its picturesque setting on the lakeside, and a whole cluster of upmarket cabañashave opened here in recent years, with one exceptionally lovely boutique hotel, La Escondida www.posadalaescondida.com.ar. Moquehue is quite different in style: more sprawling and relaxed. There are more cabañas, excellent hiking up La Bella Durmiente, and good fly fishing.

Tourist information 

Tourist info at www.villapehuenia.gov.ar. In March, the harvest of the piñonesis celebrated during the Fiesta del Pehuénwith horse-riding displays and live music.

Sights

This pretty village on sprawling Lago Aluminé's northern shore is picturesquely set amongst steep wooded hills, and makes a lovely base for a few days' relaxation or gentle walks in the hills and forests around. This is Mapuche land and was chosen for a settlement when the Mapuche were forcefully flushed out of Buenos Aires province in the late 19th century. It has special significance because seven volcanoes in a chain are visible from here, and because the area abounds with pehuén(monkey puzzle) trees, which are sacred to the Mapuche . With the rapid building of cabaña complexes, tourism is slowly taking off here, and at the moment you have the best of both worlds: an unspoilt feel but enough tourist infrastructure to stay in comfort, with good restaurants. Walk onto the peninsula stretching out into the lake from the village for wonderful walks along the araucaria-fringed shore, and up to the Mirador del Cipreswith fabulous views.

There is skiing and winter sports at the Parque de Nieve Batea Mahuida www.inter patagonia.com/bateamahuida, winter sports area (turn right just a few kilometres further along the main road, signposted). This reserve was created to protect an area of pehuéntrees and the majestic volcano Mahuida (1900 m) which is regarded by the Mapuche peoples as sacred. This sports area is one of the few businesses in the area run by Mapuche people, and is a lovely place for walking in summer, with tremendous views of all seven volcanoes around, and good for limited skiing in winter, with snowmobile and snowshoe walking. Delicious home-cooked food is served. Contact the Mapuche Puel community at the entrance. It's a lovely walk up here (three hours), or one hour by bike.

Walks 

Ask for the Sendas y Bosques map of Norte Neuquino, which shows the Pehuenia-Moquehue area, and some paths. This whole area is the heart of the Mapuche community: many houses offer pan casero (home-made bread), horse riding or walking guides. Alternatively, head further north to the weird other worldly landscapes of Paso de Arco.

Lago Moquehue 

The sprawling village of Moquehue is wilder, more remote place than Villa Pehuenia, spreading out on the shores of its lake, with a lovely wide river. Famous for fishing, this is a beautiful and utterly peaceful place to relax and walk, and it has a less cultivated feel, inspiring adventurous treks. A short stroll through araucaria forests brings you to a lovely waterfall; a longer hike to the top of Cerro Bandera (four hours return) gives wonderful views over the area, and to Volcán Llaima. For more information, see www.villapehuenia.org (in English).

Aluminé

In the splendid Aluminé Valley, lies the area's self-proclaimed rafting capital, the small town of Aluminé. There is indeed superb rafting (Grades II or IV to VI, depending on rainfall) nearby on Río Aluminé. There are places to stay, but despite the lovely setting, it's a drab place: far better to keep going to Villa Pehuenia unless you are here to go rafting. 

Rucachoroi

From Aluminé there is access to Lago Rucachoroi,the biggest Mapuche community inside the national park Lanín, in gentle farmland surrounded by ancient pehuen forests. Access is by a rough ripioroad, best in a 4WD in winter, and spectacular in autumn when the deciduous trees are a splash of orange against the bottle green araucarias. The only accommodation is in two campsites, both offering Mapuche food, and horse riding. Here too, there's a guardería where you can ask about a possible trek to Lago Quillén. The landscape is very beautiful and you will want to linger, but bring provisions and camping gear. Private transport is essential.

Lago Quillén

At the junction by the small town of Rahue, 16 km south of Aluminé, a road leads west to the valley of the Río Quillén and the exquisite Lago Quillén, from where there are fine views of Volcán Lanín peeping above the mountains. The lake itself is one of the region's most lovely, jade green in colour, with beaches along its low-lying northern coast.Further west, where annual rainfall is among the heaviest in the country, the slopes are thickly covered with superb Andean Patagonian forest. There's no transport, and the only accommodation (with food shop and hot showers) is at Camping Pudu, on the lake's northern shore, just west of the guardería. Here you can get advice about walks, and register with guardaparquesi f you plan to hike to Rucachoroi. There's another walk to the remote Lago Hui Hui, 6 km north from the second campsite, (3½ hours return). For fishing, contact Estancia Quillén .