Copahue and Caviahue

The extraordinary landscape of Reserva Provincial Copahueat the heart of this region is formed by a giant volcanic crater, whose walls are the surrounding mountains. An arid, dramatic and other-worldly landscape, the park was created to protect the araucaria trees which grow on its slopes, and there are some wonderful walks that take you to unexpectedly stunning landscapes. About 150 km from Zapala, Caviahue is by far the most attractive of the two, with an appealing lakeside setting, and the best base for walking and horse riding; it converts into a skiing and winter sports centre from July to September and swells to a winter population of over 10,000. It has three ski lifts, excellent areas for cross-country skiing, snow-shoeing and snowmobiling, all with tremendous views, and it's one of cheaper resorts in the Lake District. Copahue(altitude 1980 m) is a thermal spa resort enclosed in a gigantic amphitheatre formed by mountain walls and boasting the best thermal waters in South America, though it's decidedly the bleaker of the two towns.

Tourist information

In Caviahue, there is a tourist, www.caviahue-copahue.com.ar. For information on the thermal waters, check out www.caviahuetours.com. To find out about the ski centre, contact Caviahue Base, www.caviahue.com.

Around Caviahue

The Volcán Copahue last erupted, smokily, in 2000, destroying the bright blue lake in its crater, but it's still a popular destination for horse riding, and the views of the prehistoric landscape are astounding. Most highly recommended, though, is El Salto del Agrio, 15 km northeast along Route 27. This is the climax in a series of delightful falls, approached by a road passing between tall, ancient araucaria trees poised on basalt cliffs; a wonderful excursion by horse to see all seven falls. Other fantastic walks in the area are to the extraordinary Las Máquinas, 4 km south of Copahue, where sulphurous steam puffs through air holes and against a panoramic backdrop, making the weirdest noises. And at El Anfiteatro, there are thermal waters reaching 150°C, in a semicircle of rock edged with araucaria trees. Just above Copahue, there is a steep climb up to Cascada Escondida, a torrent of water falling 15 m over a shelf of basalt into a pool surrounded by a forest of araucaria trees; above it Lago Escondida is a magical spot.