Pehuenia and northern Neuquén

At the northern end of the Lake District, Pehuenia is a wonderful expanse of unspoilt wilderness, which is only now opening up to visitors, around the picturesque villages of Villa Pehuenia and Moquehue.

The area due west of Zapala, running along the border with Chile, is quite different from the southern lakes, thanks to its large forests of ancient pehuén, or araucaria - monkey puzzle trees.

These magnificent silent forests exert a mysterious force, and give a prehistoric feel to the landscapes,

while the sleepy backwater feel of the villages makes them appealing for a few days' rest or

gentle walking. Further north there are two little-visited tourist centres, useful stopping points if you're

heading to Mendoza. Caviahue is good for walking in rugged and unspoilt landscapes or skiing in

winter, while bleaker Copahue is known for its high-quality thermal waters. See www.villa pehuenia.org

, www.caviahue.com and www.welcomeargentina.com.