Ins and outs

Bus transport into the park is tricky, with services usually running to Lago Huechulafquen from San Martín de los Andes with KoKo Bus, but the timetable varies from year to year. There are boat trips along Lago Lacar from San Martín de los Andes, and rafting at its western end on the River Hua Hum: contact tour operators in San Martín for information. There are guardaparques (rangers) offices at Huechulafquen and Tromen, who can advise on hikes. The park can be entered at two points: one is San Martín de los Andes which is the main tourist centre and gives easy access to Lago Lacar the River Hua Hum on its western end, with plenty of tourist services, and further north, to remoter Lago Lolog. There are more good walks at the natural thermal pools at Termas de Lahuen-Co further west, accessed from Route 62, starting either south of Junín, or from Lago Lolog.

You're supposed to register at the park administration in San Martín de los Andes, the corner of Perito Moreno and Elordi,  before setting out on any major treks at Huechulafquen. There is now a guardaparque office at the entrance to the park at the eastern end of Lago Huechulafquen, and they can advise on walks and should also always be notified before you set off for a hike. Ask them about your route, and if paths are open. They have two really good free leaflets: one on the park itself, and another on climbing Lanín, both with sections in English. Check out www.parque nacionallanin.gov.ar. Having a good map is essential: look out for the Sendas y Bosques (walks and forests) map for Parque Nacional Lanín, 1:200,000, laminated and easy to read with a book containing English summaries of the walks, 'Lanín/Villarica', www.guiasendasybosques.com.ar.