El Bolsón

El Bolsón is a very seductive little place. With its laid-back atmosphere, sprawled out in a broad fertile valley 130 km south of Bariloche, it is contained within huge mountain ranges on either side (hence it's name 'the big bag'), and it makes a great base for relaxing for a few days, and for hiking in the tempting peaks around. The great serrated ridge of Cerro Piltriquitrón (2284 m) dominates the town, apparently emitting healthy positive ions, which might be why you feel so relaxed while you're here. Certainly it's a magical setting, and it's not surprising that it inspired thousands of hippies to create an ideological community here in the 1970s. What remains is a young, friendly place where the population make lots of handicrafts, and with the sparkling Río Azul running close by, and a warm sunny microclimate, you're likely to want to stay for a few days to try the home-brewed beers and fruit for which the town is famous. A craft market is held in the semicircular plaza on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday 1000-1600. Argentina's finest ice cream is made at Jauja, also the town's best restaurant, with organic milk and local berries: there are 11 flavours of chocolate alone.

Nearby there are many beautiful mountain walks, a couple of waterfalls and rafting on the Río Azul. The small national park of Lago Puelo is within easy reach 18 km south, for fishing, swimming and walking. And there's a small family orientated ski centre in the winter, at Centro de Ski Perito Moreno www.bolsonweb.com/aventura/ski.htm. For more information, see www.elbolson.com.

Tourist information

The tourist office, www.elbolson.gov.ar, have staff who are helpful and friendly (with plenty of English speakers).They'll give you an excellent map of the town and the area, and suggest places to stay. If you want to walk in the mountains, you must go to Club Andino Piltriquitrón, www.clubandinopiltriquitron.blogspot.com who will advise on hikes, and registers all walkers before setting off. The tourist office can also give limited advice on hikes and sells two quite useful maps, but you will need more detailed advice.

Best time to visit

Summer is obviously the best time to visit, when you can take full advantage of the blissful rivers and mountains, and there's a lively atmosphere on the plaza with live music at nights. But it´s very busy here in January, so try to come in February or March, or even in April, when autumn turns the trees brilliant yellow and orange, and there are sunny days but cold nights. Winter is very rainy, and best avoided, though there is a basic ski resort at Cerro Perito Moreno.

Around El Bolsón

El Bolsón's great attraction - apart from the pleasure of being in the town itself - are the superb hikes up to the mountains west of the town which start from the other side of turquoise Río Azul, where there are lovely places to sunbathe, camp and picnic. For a pleasant hour-long walk, with views over the town, climb Cerro Amigo. Follow Calle General Roca east until it becomes Islas Malvinas and continue up the hill. Better still are the panoramic views from Cerro Piltriquitrón, the jagged peak looming over the town, from where you can paraglide in summer. Drive, take a tour, or take a taxi 10 km east of the town up winding earth roads. Then it's an hour's walk to the sculpture park of the Bosque Talladoiwww.elbosquetallado.com, sculptures carved from fallen trees by local crafts-people, to the mirador with fabulous views over the valley to the Andes beyond. A six- to seven-hour round trip walking all the way. Food and shelter are available at the refugio(1400 m), and from there it's three hours' walk to the summit. A useful map, Sendas y Bosques El Bolsón and Los Alerces, is available from the tourist office. You can also do paragliding from here.

There are also good views from Cabeza del Indio, so called because the rock's profile resembles a face, a good 6-km drive or bike ride from the centre.

To the north of the town, in woods reached from winding gravel roads, there's an impressive sweep of waterfalls at Cascada Escondida, 10 km northwest, a good place for a picnic, with a botanical garden. This area is also worth visiting for a good rustic parrilla El Quincho, for local lamb and great meat (vegetarians: don't even think about it) signposted from the road. There are rather less exciting falls at Cataratas Mallín Ahogado, a little further north, but it's still a pleasant spot for a stop. There are many microbreweries dotted around town - Cervecería El Bolsón, www.cervezaselbolson.com, is particularly worth a visit, with brief guided tour, restaurant and no fewer than 18 different beers on offer, including three for celiacs. You could also try Otto Tipp www.ottotippcervezaartesanal.blogspot.com.

The famous narrow gauge railway La Trochita www.latrochita.org.ar, (also known as the Old Patagonian Express) is a novel way of seeing the landscape and a catching a glimpse into Patagonia's past. As well as the better known route from Esquel, there's another journey from at El Maitén, near El Bolsón, where you can see the fascinating steam railway workshops too.

El Bolsón benefits from a gentle microclimate which means it's warmer than most of the lakes region, even in winter. However, there is a ski centre, Centro de Ski Perito Moreno, on the upper slopes of Cerro Perito Moreno (2216 m). With good snow and no wind, its 720 skiable metres are good for families. It's a newish centre and the only place to stay at the moment is the Refugio Perito Moreno www.bolsonweb.com/aventura/ peritomoreno.htm, with 120 beds, but there are three ski lifts and ski instructors too. Ask the tourist office for more information.

Walks

There are wonderful treks to the mountains west of the town. For all walks, get the Sendas y Bosques (walks and forests) map and book for El Bolsón, Lago Puelo and Los Alerces. Maps are 1:200,000, laminated and easy to read, and the book is full of great walks, with English summaries. Register for all walks before setting off at the Club Andino Piltriquitrón.