The road to Llao Llao

To really appreciate the splendid setting of Bariloche, you need to get out of town, and head west along Avenida Bustillorunning parallel to the lakeshore to the area known as Llao Llao, where the famous hotel is, and where boats leave from Puerto Pañuelo. Frequent buses run along this road, so it's easy to explore even without your own transport. Parallel to Avenida Bustillo is Avenida de los Pioneros , with more hotels, but mostly residential areas. There's easy access to the mountains above these roads, by driving to, or getting off the bus at, the kilometre stop you want. The free tourist office map, Circuito Chicoshows the stops clearly. For a summary of some of the many excellent hikes in the area .

Llao Llao

Llao Llao, named after the exquisitely pretty hotel, is a charming area 25 km west of Bariloche, and a lovely place for walking with gorgeous views. It's at the end of Avenida Bustillo, which runs along Lago Nahuel Huapi to the port (Puerto Pañuelo), where boat trips leave. Hotel Llao Llao, is one of Argentina's finest hotels, and worth the extortionate rates for the view, spa and restaurant. The hotel was designed by Bustillo, and opened in 1937, originally almost entirely a wooden construction. It burned down within a few months of opening and was rebuilt using local stone. Superbly situated on a hill with incredible views over the lake, it's a good place for tea on the terrace. Even if luxury hotels aren't your thing, it's still worth coming to the area, as there are superb walks in beautiful virgin forest, rich in wildlife, at Parque Municipal Llao Llao, just off the road west of the hotel. This small peninsula juts into the lake, with a small hill and a little beach, Villa Tacul, both offering good views.

Cerro Campanario

At Km 17.5, a chairlift extended opening in summer, goes up to Cerro Campanario (1049 m) with superb views of the lake, edged with mountains, as well as San Pedro Peninsula below and Lago Moreno. There is a restaurant and bar at the top with fabulous views.

Circuito Chico

Circuito Chico is the classic old Argentine tour: you sit in the car and gaze at the view. These days, you're more likely to want to stop, hike, take photos and find somewhere to eat, so the tour as offered by tour operators is a frustrating experience. Drive or cycle instead. The circuit itself is a great introduction to the area. Start by travelling along Avenida Bustillo, and turn off at Km 18.3 to go around Lago Moreno Oeste, past Punto Panorámico (with really great panoramic views) and continue around Bahía López, through the Parque Municipal Llao Llao with lovely walks, and on to Hotel Llao Llao and Puerto Pañuelo. You could extend the circuit by returning via Colonia Suizaand ski resort Cerro Catedral (2388 m), both of which are possible starting points for longer treks. This is a satisfying all-day cycle ride, but beware of impatient drivers.