BusThis enormous country is connected by a network of efficient long-distance buses, which are by far the cheapest way of getting around, as well as being more environmentally friendly than plane travel. They are safe and comfortable, and long journeys are travelled overnight, which saves time, as long as you can sleep. There are three levels of service: común, which offers little comfort for overnight buses, and with lots of stops (intermedio); semi-cama, with a slightly reclining seat; and coche-cama, where seats recline (some almost completely flat) and there are few stops. On semi-cama and coche-cama services videos will be shown (usually action movies, very loud, just as you're about to go to sleep), and meals will be provided. This might be anything from a sandwich de miga (very soft white bread with a slice of cheese and ham) to a full meal, with wine and a pudding. There will also be a toilet on board (of dubious cleanliness), and the bus will usually stop somewhere en route for toilets and food. The difference in price between the services is often small, and coche-cama is most definitely worth the extra for a good night's sleep. It's a good idea to bring with you on long bus journeys: water, both to drink and for brushing your teeth, as the water in the toilet usually runs out; tissues or toilet roll; fruit or snacks, and a sandwich. Whatever you do, avoid being downstairs as although the larger chairs are down there, they are right next to the toilet and the main door both of which are in constant use throughout the night. If the cold air doesn't wake you up as the bus doors open at 0300, the smell from the toilet will. Ask the bus company to order you a vegetarian meal if you want one, at least 24 hours before the scheduled departure.
Local buses are to be recommended too: since many Argentines rely on public transport,
buses run to small villages and places in mountains, steppe or
. Services are less frequent, but worth waiting for, to get off the beaten track and completely away from other tourists. Information on frequency and prices is given in the text where possible, but services may change, so it's worth ringing the bus terminal to check.
Bus companies may give a 20% discount if you show an international student card, and this may also be available to teachers and university professors if they provide proof of employment. Note that discounts aren't usually available December to March. You can request the seat you want when you book; on old buses, seats at the back can be intolerably noisy with air conditioning (take a jumper in summer, since the air conditioning can be fierce). Make sure your seat number is on your ticket. Luggage is safely stored in a large hold at the back of the bus, and you'll be given a numbered ticket to reclaim it on arrival.
take the bags off the bus, and expect a small tip - 50 centavos or a peso is fine (many Argentines refuse to pay).
Bus company websites, www.andesmar.com.ar, and www.viabariloche.com.ar, are useful for route planning across Argentina. The website, www.plataforma10.com, has useful routes, timetables and prices for destinations near Buenos Aires.
CarIt's worth hiring a car if there are several of you, for more freedom to explore the remoter reaches of the country, where buses and tours may not yet have been established. Go carefully though: distances are huge, and road surfaces in rural places are often earth (tierra) or gravel (ripio), so allow plenty of time - 60 kph is the maximum speed for cars on ripio. Apart from the unreliability of the gravel surface, there are unpredictable potholes and rocks in the road, and swerving at speed is inevitably dangerous. Check the vehicle carefully with the hire company for scratches and cracks in the windscreen before you set off, so that you won't be blamed for them on your return. With the exception of roads around Buenos Aires, there's little traffic and roads are single lane in each direction. Service stations for fuel, toilets, water and food are much further apart than in Europe and the States; so always carry water and keep the tank full.
Car hireRenting a car costs from US$40 to US$100 a day, depending how big a car you want, and how much mileage (kilometrage) is included: discounts might be offered for longer periods.
Busy tourist places are more expensive than quieter towns, but small towns have fewer cars for hire. For most roads, even
, a conventional car will be fine, but if you're planning to head off into the
, jungle, or remote parts of Patagonia, consider hiring a four wheel drive vehicle. These may be
in Argentina - small trucks, high off the ground, and with space at the back, useful for storing luggage and bicycles. Diesel
(
) cars are much cheaper to run than petrol (
), although the diesel can sometimes
be hard to get. Make sure that insurance is included, and note that the insurance excess (what you'll have to pay if there's an accident) is extremely high in Argentina, because tourists have a history of turning cars over on
roads.
You'll need a credit card to hire a car, since companies take a print of the card as their guarantee, instead of a deposit. You'll be required to show a drivers' licence (just the plastic bit of a British licence) and minimum age for renting is 25 (private arrangements may be possible). You must ensure that the renting agency gives you ownership papers of the vehicle, which have to be shown at police and military checks, and if you plan to take the car over a border into Chile or Bolivia, for example, you must let the hire company know, as they'll need to arrange special papers for you to show, and the car must have the number plate etched on its windows.
Car theft has become common in Buenos Aires, much less so in the rest of the country, but park the car in busy well-lit places, where possible throughout the country. Always remove all belongings and leave the empty glove compartment open when the car is unattended to reduce temptation. In tourist areas, street children will offer to guard your car, worth 50 centavos, or outside restaurant areas in cities, there may be a man guarding cars for a peso.
CyclingIf you have the time, cycling offers you one of the most rewarding ways to explore Argentina. You can get to all the out of the way places, and enjoy some exhilarating rides, especially in the Andes - anywhere between Salta to El Calafate, with some breathtaking and hair-raising rides in the lakes in between. Travelling by bike gives you the chance to travel at your own pace and meet people who are not normally in contact with tourists. There's little traffic on the roads in much of the country, which are wide enough to let trucks pass with ease in most places. The challenges are the enormous distances, the fact there are few places to stop for food and drink in much of the country, and the lack of shade.
Main roads are paved, apart from the famous Ruta 40 in its southern half, and many roads into rural areas, which are gravel. For these, a mountain bike is advisable. Bring a comprehensive tool kit and spares. Bike shops are few and far between, although there are excellent shops in the Lake District for example. Consider hiring bikes here if you just want some gentle riding for a few days or so. It goes without saying that you'll need tough waterproof panniers and clothing.
Wind, not hills, will be your biggest enemy cycling in Argentina. Try to make the best use of the mornings when wind is lowest. In parts of Patagonia there can be gusting winds of 80 kph around the clock at some times of year, whereas in other areas there can be none. Take care to avoid dehydration by drinking regularly, and carry the basic food staples (sugar, salt, dried milk, tea, coffee, porridge oats, raisins, dried soups, etc) and supplement these with whatever local foods can be found in the markets.
Always camp out of sight of a road. Remember that thieves are attracted to towns and cities, so when sightseeing, try to leave your bicycle with someone such as a café owner. However, don't take unnecessary risks; always see that your bicycle is secure (most hotels will allow bikes to be kept in rooms). All over Argentina, the dogs are famous for barking at bikes and some can be vicious; carry a stick or some small stones to frighten them off. There's little traffic on most roads, but make yourself conspicuous by wearing bright clothing and for protection wear a helmet.
This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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