Punilla Valley to La Cumbre
The Punilla Valley, situated between the Sierra Chica to the east and the Sierra Grande to the west, was the first area of the sierras to become populated by weekend and summer visitors from the cities of Córdoba and Buenos Aires back in the 1920s. Sadly, these once-idyllic weekend retreats have now developed into one long string of built up urban areas alongside Route 38: Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, Valle Hermoso and La Falda. There's no real reason to stop, unless you're keen to visit Cosquín's famous folclore music festival, which is held every year in January and attracts the country's best musicians and budding talent. The whole valley is unbearably busy during the Argentine holiday periods of January, February and Easter, when it is best avoided. Any time of the year, it is preferable to head straight for La Cumbre further north, where there's a more civilized pace of life and plenty of appealing places to stay in this pretty hill-side town. Visit www.sierrascordobe sas.com.ar, www.lacumbre.gov.ar, and www.alacumbre.com(all in Spanish).
Villa Carlos Paz and around
Ghastly Villa Carlos Paz, 35 km west of Córdoba, is a large and over populated resort, crammed with hotels and brimming with Argentine tourists in summer. There are lots of activities on offer and a chair-lift runs from the Complejo Aerosilla to the summit of the Cerro de la Cruz, but your only reason to come here would be if everywhere else is full, or to use as a base for the area's superb trekking.
Villa Carlos Paz is on the road to Traslasierra further west . If you're not going that far, and are into hiking or climbing, it's certainly worth heading for Cerro Los Gigantes, with spectacular views and challenging walks.
Cosquín and around
Cosquín, 20 km north of Carlos Paz, is not an attractive town, but its setting on the banks of the wide Río Cosquín, gives it several balnearios (swimming areas), of which Pan de Azúcar is the quietest option. Cosquín is also known as the national folclore capital, and Argentina's most important folclore festival is held here in the last two weeks of January. The country's most famous bands and singers play every night on Plaza Próspero Molina, and there are plentiful food and handicrafts stalls. An increasingly popular rock festival is held here in early February, so accommodation is almost impossible to find between 10 January and 10 February. There is a tourist officeIAv San Martín 560, Plaza Próspero Molina, T03541-450397, www.visitecosquin.com.ar,and a bus terminal at Perón y Salta.
La Falda and around
La Falda, 20 km north of Cosquín, is another seething and tawdry tourist town, once the destination of Argentina's wealthy and influential who all stayed at the magnificent Hotel Edén. The hotel is now sadly in ruins but the bar gives you a flavour of its former grandeur, with an exhibition of old photographs. The town is known for its nightlife, and bars and casinos abound, but it's really a place to avoid unless you want to use it as a base for hiking in the surrounding hills and pampas.
Villa Carlos Paz and around
Ghastly Villa Carlos Paz, 35 km west of Córdoba, is a large and over populated resort, crammed with hotels and brimming with Argentine tourists in summer. There are lots of activities on offer and a chair-lift runs from the Complejo Aerosilla to the summit of the Cerro de la Cruz, but your only reason to come here would be if everywhere else is full, or to use as a base for the area's superb trekking.
Villa Carlos Paz is on the road to Traslasierra further west . If you're not going that far, and are into hiking or climbing, it's certainly worth heading for Cerro Los Gigantes, with spectacular views and challenging walks.
Cosquín and around
Cosquín, 20 km north of Carlos Paz, is not an attractive town, but its setting on the banks of the wide Río Cosquín, gives it several balnearios (swimming areas), of which Pan de Azúcar is the quietest option. Cosquín is also known as the national folclore capital, and Argentina's most important folclore festival is held here in the last two weeks of January. The country's most famous bands and singers play every night on Plaza Próspero Molina, and there are plentiful food and handicrafts stalls. An increasingly popular rock festival is held here in early February, so accommodation is almost impossible to find between 10 January and 10 February. There is a tourist officeIAv San Martín 560, Plaza Próspero Molina, T03541-450397, www.visitecosquin.com.ar,and a bus terminal at Perón y Salta.
La Falda and around
La Falda, 20 km north of Cosquín, is another seething and tawdry tourist town, once the destination of Argentina's wealthy and influential who all stayed at the magnificent Hotel Edén. The hotel is now sadly in ruins but the bar gives you a flavour of its former grandeur, with an exhibition of old photographs. The town is known for its nightlife, and bars and casinos abound, but it's really a place to avoid unless you want to use it as a base for hiking in the surrounding hills and pampas.
The sierras to the east of La Falda are a good place for hiking. Cerro La Banderita (1350 m), which is also popular with paragliders, is a 1½-hour walk from the town centre and provides panoramic views of the valley: leave from the left side of Hotel Edén and take the street called Austria.
La Cumbre and around
By far the most attractive town in this whole area, La Cumbre sits at the highest point of the Punilla Valley at 1141 m. It's only 1½-hour's drive from Córdoba, if you head straight here without stopping on the way. It was founded by the British engineers and workers who built the railway here in 1900 and who have given the place its distinctive flavour, with trees lining the avenues in the attractive residential area to the east of town, where you'll find the best hotels. Further east you'll find lots of craftsmen selling their wares, particularly in the summer months. Unlike the rest of the valley, this friendly little town still feels authentic and the town centre bustles busily just before midday. There are some classy shops, as well as lots of places to eat and a couple of tea rooms selling superb cakes. For the more adventurous, there's excellent paragliding nearby in Cuchi Corral southwest of the town There are also plenty of places to walk in the mountains, with access from residential areas Cruz Chica and Cruz Grande, on the road to Los Cocos.
The tourist office is in the old train station, and many of the friendly staff speak English. They'll give you a very helpful map listing all the hotels and restaurants. See also www.ala cumbre.com.ar, and www.turismolacumbre.com.ar (both in Spanish).
As a visitor to Argentina, you might not have noticed the national obsession with alfajores, the soft cakey biscuits made of a double layer of corn flour sponge, and sandwiched with dulce de leche. The chocolate-covered ones from Havannaalfajores shops in any town centre are particularly recommended. While you're in La Cumbre, you could visit the famous alfajores factory, Estancia El Rosario www.estanciaelrosario.com.ar, daily 0800-1900, to see them being made and try a fine specimen or three. The factory has been operating since 1924 and was, for many years, a major tourist attraction. These days there are still free guided visits to the small factory where fruit preserves and other sweet delicacies are also made.
Head east from the golf course along Route 66 for the spectacular mountain crossing which leads to Ascochinga . North of La Cumbre, there are more hotels in the lovely leafy residential areas of Cruz Chica, Cruz Grande and Los Cocos. Further along this picturesque road are two popular places for families: El Descanso, with its well-designed garden and maze, and Complejo Aerosilla, with a chairlift to the nearby hills.
Capilla del Monte and around
Capilla del Monte is a quiet town and not wildly appealing, but it does offer a base for good trekking and paragliding, and for exploring nearby rock formations, Agua de los Palos. The landscapes are hilly and scrubby, with places rather reminiscent of the lunar landscapes in Ischigualasto - Valle de la Luna in San Juan . There is a tourist office www.capillademonte.gov.ar, www.capilladelmonte.com.ar (in Spanish). The town is overlooked by dramatic Cerro Uritorco, 1979 m, which you can climb.
UFO-spotters flock to the amazing landscape of Quebrada de la Luna, Los Terrones and Parque Natural Ongamira, where there are curious rock formations. Ask in the tourist office for more information and for a remise to take you there.
La Cumbre and around
By far the most attractive town in this whole area, La Cumbre sits at the highest point of the Punilla Valley at 1141 m. It's only 1½-hour's drive from Córdoba, if you head straight here without stopping on the way. It was founded by the British engineers and workers who built the railway here in 1900 and who have given the place its distinctive flavour, with trees lining the avenues in the attractive residential area to the east of town, where you'll find the best hotels. Further east you'll find lots of craftsmen selling their wares, particularly in the summer months. Unlike the rest of the valley, this friendly little town still feels authentic and the town centre bustles busily just before midday. There are some classy shops, as well as lots of places to eat and a couple of tea rooms selling superb cakes. For the more adventurous, there's excellent paragliding nearby in Cuchi Corral southwest of the town There are also plenty of places to walk in the mountains, with access from residential areas Cruz Chica and Cruz Grande, on the road to Los Cocos.
The tourist office is in the old train station, and many of the friendly staff speak English. They'll give you a very helpful map listing all the hotels and restaurants. See also www.ala cumbre.com.ar, and www.turismolacumbre.com.ar (both in Spanish).
As a visitor to Argentina, you might not have noticed the national obsession with alfajores, the soft cakey biscuits made of a double layer of corn flour sponge, and sandwiched with dulce de leche. The chocolate-covered ones from Havannaalfajores shops in any town centre are particularly recommended. While you're in La Cumbre, you could visit the famous alfajores factory, Estancia El Rosario www.estanciaelrosario.com.ar, daily 0800-1900, to see them being made and try a fine specimen or three. The factory has been operating since 1924 and was, for many years, a major tourist attraction. These days there are still free guided visits to the small factory where fruit preserves and other sweet delicacies are also made.
Head east from the golf course along Route 66 for the spectacular mountain crossing which leads to Ascochinga . North of La Cumbre, there are more hotels in the lovely leafy residential areas of Cruz Chica, Cruz Grande and Los Cocos. Further along this picturesque road are two popular places for families: El Descanso, with its well-designed garden and maze, and Complejo Aerosilla, with a chairlift to the nearby hills.
Capilla del Monte and around
Capilla del Monte is a quiet town and not wildly appealing, but it does offer a base for good trekking and paragliding, and for exploring nearby rock formations, Agua de los Palos. The landscapes are hilly and scrubby, with places rather reminiscent of the lunar landscapes in Ischigualasto - Valle de la Luna in San Juan . There is a tourist office www.capillademonte.gov.ar, www.capilladelmonte.com.ar (in Spanish). The town is overlooked by dramatic Cerro Uritorco, 1979 m, which you can climb.
UFO-spotters flock to the amazing landscape of Quebrada de la Luna, Los Terrones and Parque Natural Ongamira, where there are curious rock formations. Ask in the tourist office for more information and for a remise to take you there.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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