Jesuit estancias: Camino de la Historia
The real jewel in the crown of Córdoba province is the collection of fine 17th-century Jesuit estancias in the hilly, rural areas to the north of the provincial capital. Three of the oldest estancias lie close to what used to be the Camino Real (the 'royal road'), used by the Spanish to link the Córdoba with Lima and the Alto Perú mines. The Jesuit missionaries established huge, enterprising estancias in the country that were used to finance their educational and artistic work in the city. The elegant residences and beautiful chapels built for the priests still remain, complete with some wonderful art and walled gardens. These can be explored at Jesús María, 40 km north of Córdoba, Estancia Caroya nearby, and Santa Catalina 20 km further northwest. You could visit all three Jesuit estancias in a long day's drive from Córdoba, but part of the charm of exploring the sierras is to enjoy a night or two in the area's marvellous estancias - the kind where you're offered fine wine with dinner and horse riding, rather than religious instruction. For more information, visit www.sierraschicas.net, and www.cordobaciudad.com/estanciasjesuiticas.
Jesús María
The sleepy town of Jesús María, with its avenues lined with plane trees, is a good base for exploring two of Córdoba's oldest Jesuit estancias. It's typical of towns that grew through a wave of immigration from Friuli in the north of Italy, starting with 60 families in 1878. There's a distinctly Italian influence to the food, with some superb salamis to be found in the cafés and shops. Jesús María itself has little to offer tourists, but during the first half of January it hosts the Festival de Doma y Folclore, a popular folclore music and gaucho event whose profits benefit local schools.
There are two tourist offices, www.cerrocolorado.infoturis.com.ar, www.jesusmaria.gov.ar, which provide useful information. Ask for the leaflet Caminos de las Estancias Jesuíticas, which includes a handy map of the estancias in relation to Córdoba, a map and some information on each estancia (in Spanish).
Estancia Jesús María
This is a well-conserved example of a Jesuit-built estancia, whose production supported the schools in Córdoba. Argentina's first vineyards were created here, and wine from Jesús María was reputed to have been the first American wine served to the Spanish royal family. The residence and church, built mainly in 1618, form three sides of a square enclosing a neat garden with pleasing cloisters on two sides. The imposing façade of the church is in good condition, with tall, plaster-covered pillars contrasting with the stone work of the main building, but it's a sober affair compared with the opulent interior of the church, with its finely decorated cupola. In the adjoining Museo Jesuítico, beautiful Cuzco-style paintings, religious objects and a curious collection of plates are on display, together with artefacts from early winemaking. There are no longer remains of the housing for slaves and indigenous workers, or the cultivation areas but, with its lovely pond underneath mature trees and a small graveyard to the left of the church, the whole place is very attractive and peaceful. Highly recommended for a few hours' visit.
Estancia de Caroya
Estancia de Caroya, dating from 1616, was the first of the Jesuit establishments to be built in the area and has an interesting history. It was acquired in 1661 by the Jesuit founder of the Colegio Convictorio de Montserrat (in Córdoba city) and while its agricultural activities funded the college, it was also used as a holiday home for the students. Between 1814 and 1816, it was used as a weapons factory for the Army of the North fighting in the Wars of Independence, and then in 1878 the first Italian immigrants stayed here. A simpler construction than Jesús María, Santa Catalina consists of single-storey cloisters around a central patio, with access to kitchens, dining rooms, and a simple stone chapel. The fascinating history is well presented in the displays here, including a room with artefacts from the Italian immigration, and though the tour is informative your guide may not speak English. Ruins of a dam and a mill can be seen in the surrounding gardens.
Around Jesús Maria
Next to Jesús María, Colonia Caroya was the heart of the Italian immigration, and you can taste delicious salami at any of the local restaurants. The long access road is beautifully lined by an uninterrupted avenue of mature sycamore trees, where you'll find Bodegas La Caroyense www.lacaroyense-sa.com.ar, a winery offering guided visits.
Set picturesquely among hills, the attractive village of Villa Tulumba has hardly changed since colonial times. It's worth visiting for the beautiful 17th-century baroque tabernacle in its church, crafted in the Jesuit missions.
Estancia Santa Catalina
This is the largest of the estancias, beautifully located in rolling fertile countryside northwest of Jesús María, and not to be missed. It is also the best preserved of all the estancias and the only one that remains in private hands, having the added advantage of being close to Ascochinga , which has some good accommodation.
The house is still in use by the extended Díaz family as their weekend and summer home, but the church and all the outbuildings are open to the public. The guided tour (Spanish only) is included in the entrance price and provides lots of information on the way of life here, as well as allowing you to visit the seminary buildings and the second and third patios, which are rich in architectural detail.
Built in 1622, the church has the most wonderful baroque façade, with swooping curves and scrolls in white plaster, and twin bell towers. The beautifully maintained interior has a fabulous gold pulpit and retable, brought from Alto Perú, with religious figures made by indigenous craftsmen betraying certain anatomical details of their makers, such as their big knees and robust workmen's thighs. There are superb Cuzco-school paintings representing the Passion and, opposite the retable, an intriguing articulated sculpture of Jesus on the cross. This was used by the Jesuit priests as a teaching device to evangelize the indigenous peoples, and unlike most such figures, this Jesus has his eyes open: his arms could be lowered to enact scenes from his life, pre-crucifixion, and then raised, as he was mounted on the cross. A moving and fascinating figure.
The house has a beautiful central patio, where just three priests lived in spacious splendour, organizing a staff of 600 and a workforce of thousands of African slaves and local indigenous peoples. Santa Catalina was the most important of the estancias economically, with its 25,000 head of cattle and extensive agriculture. To the right of the church is a huge vegetable garden and, further out, a little brick building with six tiny rooms where novice priests were trained. The slaves' quarters were even more miserable and can be found on the road leading to the estancia, now converted into a restaurant. The servants for the main house were housed in the second patio, and in the third patio were wood and metal workshops. In the lovely surrounding parkland, you can see the tajamar - a reservoir used for the sophisticated watering system for crops.
Ascochinga and Estancia La Paz
The upmarket little village of Ascochinga, is full of second homes for rich Córdobes, a couple of shops, a part time locutorio, an ACA petrol station and there are plenty of accommodation options. A fabulously opulent place to stay is the historical Estancia La Paz www.estancialapaz.com, which was owned by President Roca from 1872 until his death in 1914, and remains almost untouched. Just try not to think about him planning the massacre of the indigenous peoples in the Conquest of the Desert when he stayed here. Roca added the neoclassical Italianate touches to the building, and commissioned a splendid 100-ha park from Argentina's most famous landscape architect Charles Thays, whose work includes the parks at Palermo, Tucumán and Mendoza. There are grand bedrooms, with enormously high ceilings, coming directly off a long terrace with wonderful views across the huge ornamental lake where you can go rowing if the mood takes you. There are immense groves of exotic trees and blissful, private places to sit on the 1930s garden furniture and order tea from the impeccable staff. Old-fashioned opulence is combined with more modern luxuries such as an Olympic- sized pool, tennis courts, a spa with expert masseuse and a superb restaurant, making this a real treat. They also offer day-rates, if you don't have the time or the money to stay the night.
Asochinga to La Cumbre
From Asochinga a spectacular route heads over the mountains to La Cumbre . The road courses through wonderful landscapes of rounded mountain ridges and deep valleys and is much loved by rally drivers and cyclists in training. This winding dirt road, full of hair-pin bends, is probably best not attempted in the dark or in bad weather. The vegetation varies from lush subtropical woodlands, to lush scrub on the summits, and there are consistently great views on a fine day.
Northeast of Córdoba
A reserve, called the Reserva Natural Bañados del Río Dulce y Laguna Mar Chiquitai www.promarmarchiquita.com.ar, has been created to protect the huge numbers of migratory birds which flock here in summer from the northern hemisphere. So far, over 300 species of bird have been spotted here, returning to different parts of the lagoon each year. There are also large resident populations of flamingos representing all three species extant in South America. It's the site of greatest biodiversity in the province, and is also popular for fishing pejerrey all year round. During the summer, human visitors flock here too, since the salty waters are used in the treatment of rheumatic ailments and skin diseases. It's a singular and spectacular landscape and, although you may not feel it's not worth a big detour, if you're spending some time in the area, it would make a good relaxing day out. Park administration is in Miramar on the southern shore, the only settlement nearby, where there are a few hotels and campsites.
Jesús María
The sleepy town of Jesús María, with its avenues lined with plane trees, is a good base for exploring two of Córdoba's oldest Jesuit estancias. It's typical of towns that grew through a wave of immigration from Friuli in the north of Italy, starting with 60 families in 1878. There's a distinctly Italian influence to the food, with some superb salamis to be found in the cafés and shops. Jesús María itself has little to offer tourists, but during the first half of January it hosts the Festival de Doma y Folclore, a popular folclore music and gaucho event whose profits benefit local schools.
There are two tourist offices, www.cerrocolorado.infoturis.com.ar, www.jesusmaria.gov.ar, which provide useful information. Ask for the leaflet Caminos de las Estancias Jesuíticas, which includes a handy map of the estancias in relation to Córdoba, a map and some information on each estancia (in Spanish).
Estancia Jesús María
This is a well-conserved example of a Jesuit-built estancia, whose production supported the schools in Córdoba. Argentina's first vineyards were created here, and wine from Jesús María was reputed to have been the first American wine served to the Spanish royal family. The residence and church, built mainly in 1618, form three sides of a square enclosing a neat garden with pleasing cloisters on two sides. The imposing façade of the church is in good condition, with tall, plaster-covered pillars contrasting with the stone work of the main building, but it's a sober affair compared with the opulent interior of the church, with its finely decorated cupola. In the adjoining Museo Jesuítico, beautiful Cuzco-style paintings, religious objects and a curious collection of plates are on display, together with artefacts from early winemaking. There are no longer remains of the housing for slaves and indigenous workers, or the cultivation areas but, with its lovely pond underneath mature trees and a small graveyard to the left of the church, the whole place is very attractive and peaceful. Highly recommended for a few hours' visit.
Estancia de Caroya
Estancia de Caroya, dating from 1616, was the first of the Jesuit establishments to be built in the area and has an interesting history. It was acquired in 1661 by the Jesuit founder of the Colegio Convictorio de Montserrat (in Córdoba city) and while its agricultural activities funded the college, it was also used as a holiday home for the students. Between 1814 and 1816, it was used as a weapons factory for the Army of the North fighting in the Wars of Independence, and then in 1878 the first Italian immigrants stayed here. A simpler construction than Jesús María, Santa Catalina consists of single-storey cloisters around a central patio, with access to kitchens, dining rooms, and a simple stone chapel. The fascinating history is well presented in the displays here, including a room with artefacts from the Italian immigration, and though the tour is informative your guide may not speak English. Ruins of a dam and a mill can be seen in the surrounding gardens.
Around Jesús Maria
Next to Jesús María, Colonia Caroya was the heart of the Italian immigration, and you can taste delicious salami at any of the local restaurants. The long access road is beautifully lined by an uninterrupted avenue of mature sycamore trees, where you'll find Bodegas La Caroyense www.lacaroyense-sa.com.ar, a winery offering guided visits.
Set picturesquely among hills, the attractive village of Villa Tulumba has hardly changed since colonial times. It's worth visiting for the beautiful 17th-century baroque tabernacle in its church, crafted in the Jesuit missions.
Estancia Santa Catalina
This is the largest of the estancias, beautifully located in rolling fertile countryside northwest of Jesús María, and not to be missed. It is also the best preserved of all the estancias and the only one that remains in private hands, having the added advantage of being close to Ascochinga , which has some good accommodation.
The house is still in use by the extended Díaz family as their weekend and summer home, but the church and all the outbuildings are open to the public. The guided tour (Spanish only) is included in the entrance price and provides lots of information on the way of life here, as well as allowing you to visit the seminary buildings and the second and third patios, which are rich in architectural detail.
Built in 1622, the church has the most wonderful baroque façade, with swooping curves and scrolls in white plaster, and twin bell towers. The beautifully maintained interior has a fabulous gold pulpit and retable, brought from Alto Perú, with religious figures made by indigenous craftsmen betraying certain anatomical details of their makers, such as their big knees and robust workmen's thighs. There are superb Cuzco-school paintings representing the Passion and, opposite the retable, an intriguing articulated sculpture of Jesus on the cross. This was used by the Jesuit priests as a teaching device to evangelize the indigenous peoples, and unlike most such figures, this Jesus has his eyes open: his arms could be lowered to enact scenes from his life, pre-crucifixion, and then raised, as he was mounted on the cross. A moving and fascinating figure.
The house has a beautiful central patio, where just three priests lived in spacious splendour, organizing a staff of 600 and a workforce of thousands of African slaves and local indigenous peoples. Santa Catalina was the most important of the estancias economically, with its 25,000 head of cattle and extensive agriculture. To the right of the church is a huge vegetable garden and, further out, a little brick building with six tiny rooms where novice priests were trained. The slaves' quarters were even more miserable and can be found on the road leading to the estancia, now converted into a restaurant. The servants for the main house were housed in the second patio, and in the third patio were wood and metal workshops. In the lovely surrounding parkland, you can see the tajamar - a reservoir used for the sophisticated watering system for crops.
Ascochinga and Estancia La Paz
The upmarket little village of Ascochinga, is full of second homes for rich Córdobes, a couple of shops, a part time locutorio, an ACA petrol station and there are plenty of accommodation options. A fabulously opulent place to stay is the historical Estancia La Paz www.estancialapaz.com, which was owned by President Roca from 1872 until his death in 1914, and remains almost untouched. Just try not to think about him planning the massacre of the indigenous peoples in the Conquest of the Desert when he stayed here. Roca added the neoclassical Italianate touches to the building, and commissioned a splendid 100-ha park from Argentina's most famous landscape architect Charles Thays, whose work includes the parks at Palermo, Tucumán and Mendoza. There are grand bedrooms, with enormously high ceilings, coming directly off a long terrace with wonderful views across the huge ornamental lake where you can go rowing if the mood takes you. There are immense groves of exotic trees and blissful, private places to sit on the 1930s garden furniture and order tea from the impeccable staff. Old-fashioned opulence is combined with more modern luxuries such as an Olympic- sized pool, tennis courts, a spa with expert masseuse and a superb restaurant, making this a real treat. They also offer day-rates, if you don't have the time or the money to stay the night.
Asochinga to La Cumbre
From Asochinga a spectacular route heads over the mountains to La Cumbre . The road courses through wonderful landscapes of rounded mountain ridges and deep valleys and is much loved by rally drivers and cyclists in training. This winding dirt road, full of hair-pin bends, is probably best not attempted in the dark or in bad weather. The vegetation varies from lush subtropical woodlands, to lush scrub on the summits, and there are consistently great views on a fine day.
Northeast of Córdoba
A reserve, called the Reserva Natural Bañados del Río Dulce y Laguna Mar Chiquitai www.promarmarchiquita.com.ar, has been created to protect the huge numbers of migratory birds which flock here in summer from the northern hemisphere. So far, over 300 species of bird have been spotted here, returning to different parts of the lagoon each year. There are also large resident populations of flamingos representing all three species extant in South America. It's the site of greatest biodiversity in the province, and is also popular for fishing pejerrey all year round. During the summer, human visitors flock here too, since the salty waters are used in the treatment of rheumatic ailments and skin diseases. It's a singular and spectacular landscape and, although you may not feel it's not worth a big detour, if you're spending some time in the area, it would make a good relaxing day out. Park administration is in Miramar on the southern shore, the only settlement nearby, where there are a few hotels and campsites.
|
This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
Products in this Region No related products |
PDF Downloads No PDFs currently available |
Digital Products  Available NOW!Read more... |