San Antonio de Areco
San Antonio de Areco, 113 km northwest of Buenos Aires, is the original gaucho town and makes a perfect escape from the capital. Built in the late 19th century, much of its charm lies in the authenticity of its crumbling buildings surrounding an atmospheric plaza filled with palms and plane trees, and the streets lined with orange trees. The attractive costanera along the riverbank is a great place to swim and picnic. There are several estancias nearby, and the town itself has several historical boliches (combined bar and provisions stores), where you can lap up the atmosphere, listen to live music and meet locals. Gaucho traditions are on display in the many weekend activities, and the town's craftsmen produce wonderful silver work, textiles and traditional worked leather handicrafts of the highest quality. Annual events include the pato games in January, a poncho parade in February and the Fiesta Criolla in March. Most important of all, however, is the Day of Tradition, in the second week of November (book accommodation in advance). The tourist information centre www.sanantoniodeareco.com, has friendly, helpful, English-speaking staff who can advise on gaucho activities in the town, as well as accommodation and transport. Other useful websites include www.pagosdeareco.com.ar, and www.arecotur.com.ar.
The Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes is a replica of a typical estancia of the late 19th century, and houses impressive gaucho artefacts and displays on the life of the writer who was a sophisticated member of Parisian literary circles, and an Argentine nationalist who romanticized gaucho life. Güiraldes spent much of his early life on Estancia La Porteña, 8 km from San Antonio, and settled there to write his best-known book, Don Segundo Sombra (1926), which was set in San Antonio. The estancia and sights in the town such as the old bridge and the Pulpería La Blanqueada (at the entrance to the museum), became famous through its pages.
Superb gaucho silverwork is for sale at the workshop and Museo de Juan José Draghi. Excellent chocolates are made at La Olla de Cobre with a charming little café for drinking chocolate and trying the most amazing home-made alfajores. There is a large park, Parque San Martín, spanning the river to the north of the town near the tourist information centre. While you're here, you should visit one of the old traditional bars, or pulperías, many of which have been lovingly restored to recreate the 1900s ambience, and are brought to life by a genuine local clientele every night. There is a also a small zoo, Parque de Flora y Fauna Carlos Merti. The city museum, Centro Cultural and Museo Usina Vieja is free to enter.
The Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes is a replica of a typical estancia of the late 19th century, and houses impressive gaucho artefacts and displays on the life of the writer who was a sophisticated member of Parisian literary circles, and an Argentine nationalist who romanticized gaucho life. Güiraldes spent much of his early life on Estancia La Porteña, 8 km from San Antonio, and settled there to write his best-known book, Don Segundo Sombra (1926), which was set in San Antonio. The estancia and sights in the town such as the old bridge and the Pulpería La Blanqueada (at the entrance to the museum), became famous through its pages.
Superb gaucho silverwork is for sale at the workshop and Museo de Juan José Draghi. Excellent chocolates are made at La Olla de Cobre with a charming little café for drinking chocolate and trying the most amazing home-made alfajores. There is a large park, Parque San Martín, spanning the river to the north of the town near the tourist information centre. While you're here, you should visit one of the old traditional bars, or pulperías, many of which have been lovingly restored to recreate the 1900s ambience, and are brought to life by a genuine local clientele every night. There is a also a small zoo, Parque de Flora y Fauna Carlos Merti. The city museum, Centro Cultural and Museo Usina Vieja is free to enter.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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