Dolores

Dolores is a pretty, sleepy little town, 204 km south of Buenos Aires. Founded in 1818, it was the first town in independent Argentina, and its attractive old buildings would be perfect as a film set for a 19th-century drama. There's an interesting little museum,

 with good displays on local history, in particular about the Campaign of the Desert and the subsequent revolt against Rosas. It also contains lots of gaucho silver, plaited leather

, branding irons and a huge cart from 1868. There's a charming plaza at the heart of the town, with a central obelisk and impressive classical-style church, the

. In mid- to late February, the

is held, with performances from

internationally famous musicians, dancing and processions. This is a good time to visit, but book ahead. For further information, contact the

. The railway station is 15 minutes from the centre.

The main reason to visit Dolores is its proximity to one of the oldest and most beautiful

estancias

in the pampas,

. The fabulously elegant house is set in grand parkland designed by Charles Thays, with a lovely chapel copied from Notre Dame de Passy and a fascinating history. Come for the day or, even better, stay. You'll be warmly welcomed by the owners, who are descendants of the

's original owner, Pedro Luro. This beautifully decorated home is one of Argentina's really special places to stay.