Chascomús

This quaint historical town, 126 km south of Buenos Aires, is worth visiting to enjoy the vibrant combination of gaucho culture and fine 19th-century architecture, creating an atmosphere of colonial refinement with a Wild West feel. Chascomús was founded in 1779, when a fort was built as protection against the indigenous tribes. In 1839, it was the site of the Battle of the Libres del Sur (the Free of the South), and its streets are full of well-preserved buildings dating from the mid-1800s, and lined with mature trees. Despite the strong historical significance, the town has a lively feel and its position along the eastern edge of the huge Laguna Chascomús gives it an attractive costanera, which comes to life in summer. The tourist office www.chascomus.com.ar, and www.chascomus.net is four blocks from the main avenue, Las Astras. You can take a boat out on the laguna, or head to a couple of fine estancias nearby.

Sights

Around the quiet Plaza Independencia are the fudge-coloured colonial-style Palacio Municipal and Iglesia Catedral. Southeast of the plaza is the extraordinary Capilla de los Negros (1862), a small brick chapel with earth floor, built as a place of worship for African slaves who were bought by wealthy families in the early 1800s; it's an atmospheric place that still holds the slaves' offerings. A highly recommended museum for an insight into gaucho culture is the Museo Pampeano which has lots of information on gaucho traditions, fabulous maps of the Spanish conquest, furniture and all the evident wealth of the early pioneers.

To the south of the town lies the Laguna Chascomús, one of a chain of seven connected lakes; the costanera is a pleasant place to stroll, you can sail and windsurf in the summer, and there are frequent regattas. It's also an important breeding site for pejerrey fish, with amateur fishing competitions held from November to March. The delightful estancia, La Fei www.estancialafe.com, is nearby.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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