Bahía Blanca and around
The province's most important port and a big naval base, Bahía Blanca is a busy city, and yet it's a relaxed and attractive place with some fine early 20th-century architecture around its large plaza. There's not much to attract tourists, but it's a useful stopping point on the route south, or a base for exploring the beautiful mountains 100 km north at Sierra de la Ventana. It's a city with the feel of a small town, where people are friendly and everyone knows everyone else.
Getting around
The city is pleasant to walk around, with a small centre, and most things you'll need on streets Alsina or San Martín north/east of the plaza. There's a good network of local buses, taking tarjebuscards rather than cash (available from shops and kiosks), which you'll need to catch if you want to get to the shopping mall 20 blocks north. Taxis are cheap, plentiful and safe.
Tourist information
The tourist office www.bahiablanca.gov.ar is very helpful.
Background
Bahía Blanca was founded in 1828 as a fort, the Fortaleza Protectora Argentina, both to control cattle rustling by the indigenous population, and to protect the coast from Brazil whose navy had landed in the area in 1827. Though the indigenous people of the area were defeated in the campaigns of Rosas, the fortress was attacked several times, notably by 3000 Calfucurá warriors in 1859. An important centre of European immigration, it became a major port with the building of railways connecting it with grain-producing areas of the pampas. The biggest industry now is a huge petrochemicals plant 8 km from town at the port.
Sights
Bahía Blanca is pleasant to walk around, with well-preserved architecture from the early 20th century. At the city's heart is the large Plaza Rivadavia, a broad, well-kept leafy space, with a striking sculpture. On the west side is the Italianate Municipalidad (1904), and to the south the impressive French-style Banco de la Nación (1927); it's worth popping in to see its perfectly preserved interior. Three blocks north there's the classical Teatro Municipalidad (1922) which hosts regular theatre, live music and dance. At the side of the theatre, the Museo Histórico has interesting displays on the city's history.
To the northwest of the centre, along the attractive Avenida Além, the Parque de Mayo is filled with eucalyptus trees, children's play areas and bars. Nearby there's a golf course, sports centre and a long area for walking by the river through a sculpture park.
Not to be missed is the Museo del Puerto. Set in a former customs building, this has entertaining and imaginative displays on immigrant life in the early 20th century, with witty photographs, evocative music and sound. And there's a great café in one of the exhibition spaces on Sundays. Highly recommended. The port also has a couple of fine fish restaurants in its red light district.
Around Bahía Blanca
Bahía Blanca has both mountains and beach within an hour's drive. At Pehuén-Có, 84 km east, there's a long stretch of sandy beaches and dunes, all relatively empty and unspoilt (beware of jellyfish when wind is in the south), signposted from the main road 24 km from Bahía Blanca. It has a wild and un-touristy feel, with a single hotel, several campsites well shaded by pine trees, and a couple of places to eat.
There's a more established resort at Monte Hermoso, 106 km east, with good hotels and better organized campsites, but still a quiet, family feel, and wonderful beaches for bathing. Its claim to fame is that it's one of the few places where the sun rises and sets over the sea (here too, don't swim when wind is in the south because of jellyfish - ask a local if in doubt).
Santa Rosa de la Pampa
Santa Rosa is the capital of La Pampa province, founded in 1892, an important administrative centre 663 km from Buenos Aires. It's not a wildly exciting destination but it's a friendly place. There aren't really any tourist sights, though the Teatro Español, Lagos 44, dates from 1908, and ten blocks west of the Plaza San Martín is Laguna Don Tomás and a park with sports facilities. There's a tourist office www.santarosa.gov.ar, opposite the bus terminal, which is seven blocks east of Plaza San Martín.
The main reason to stop here is to visit the Parque Nacional Lihue Calel www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar . Closer however, is the Parque Luro www.parqueluro.gov.ar, 2 buses a day from Santa Rosa, 32 km south of Santa Rosa, which covers over 6500 ha. This provincial park occupies the former estate of Pedro Luro , who created his own hunting grounds for aristocratic friends visiting from Europe, introducing red deer and wild boar, running wild in the park, with many species of birds. Luro's mansion, a French-style chateau, has been turned into a museum, and opposite is a Centro de Interpretación Ecológico, with displays on the flora and fauna of the Pampas.
The Lihue Calel National Park is situated 240 km southwest of Santa Rosa and 120 km from General Acha, The name derives from the Mapuche for 'place of life', and you can understand why when you see its low vegetated hills rising out of rather arid desert. Its microclimate allows it to support a wide variety of plant species, including a number of unique species of cactus in its rocky terrain. Wildlife includes pumas, but you're more likely to spot maras (Patagonian hare), vizcachas, guanacos and rheas as well as a wide variety of birds. The area was home to various groups of indigenous people 2000 years ago; there are geometric cave paintings in the Valle de las Pinturas and the Valle de Namuncurá, seen on one of two self-guided trails through the park. The other trail, El Huitru, climbs the highest hill in the park and explores some of its amazing flora. The park is best visited in spring.
Getting around
The city is pleasant to walk around, with a small centre, and most things you'll need on streets Alsina or San Martín north/east of the plaza. There's a good network of local buses, taking tarjebuscards rather than cash (available from shops and kiosks), which you'll need to catch if you want to get to the shopping mall 20 blocks north. Taxis are cheap, plentiful and safe.
Tourist information
The tourist office www.bahiablanca.gov.ar is very helpful.
Background
Bahía Blanca was founded in 1828 as a fort, the Fortaleza Protectora Argentina, both to control cattle rustling by the indigenous population, and to protect the coast from Brazil whose navy had landed in the area in 1827. Though the indigenous people of the area were defeated in the campaigns of Rosas, the fortress was attacked several times, notably by 3000 Calfucurá warriors in 1859. An important centre of European immigration, it became a major port with the building of railways connecting it with grain-producing areas of the pampas. The biggest industry now is a huge petrochemicals plant 8 km from town at the port.
Sights
Bahía Blanca is pleasant to walk around, with well-preserved architecture from the early 20th century. At the city's heart is the large Plaza Rivadavia, a broad, well-kept leafy space, with a striking sculpture. On the west side is the Italianate Municipalidad (1904), and to the south the impressive French-style Banco de la Nación (1927); it's worth popping in to see its perfectly preserved interior. Three blocks north there's the classical Teatro Municipalidad (1922) which hosts regular theatre, live music and dance. At the side of the theatre, the Museo Histórico has interesting displays on the city's history.
To the northwest of the centre, along the attractive Avenida Além, the Parque de Mayo is filled with eucalyptus trees, children's play areas and bars. Nearby there's a golf course, sports centre and a long area for walking by the river through a sculpture park.
Not to be missed is the Museo del Puerto. Set in a former customs building, this has entertaining and imaginative displays on immigrant life in the early 20th century, with witty photographs, evocative music and sound. And there's a great café in one of the exhibition spaces on Sundays. Highly recommended. The port also has a couple of fine fish restaurants in its red light district.
Around Bahía Blanca
Bahía Blanca has both mountains and beach within an hour's drive. At Pehuén-Có, 84 km east, there's a long stretch of sandy beaches and dunes, all relatively empty and unspoilt (beware of jellyfish when wind is in the south), signposted from the main road 24 km from Bahía Blanca. It has a wild and un-touristy feel, with a single hotel, several campsites well shaded by pine trees, and a couple of places to eat.
There's a more established resort at Monte Hermoso, 106 km east, with good hotels and better organized campsites, but still a quiet, family feel, and wonderful beaches for bathing. Its claim to fame is that it's one of the few places where the sun rises and sets over the sea (here too, don't swim when wind is in the south because of jellyfish - ask a local if in doubt).
Santa Rosa de la Pampa
Santa Rosa is the capital of La Pampa province, founded in 1892, an important administrative centre 663 km from Buenos Aires. It's not a wildly exciting destination but it's a friendly place. There aren't really any tourist sights, though the Teatro Español, Lagos 44, dates from 1908, and ten blocks west of the Plaza San Martín is Laguna Don Tomás and a park with sports facilities. There's a tourist office www.santarosa.gov.ar, opposite the bus terminal, which is seven blocks east of Plaza San Martín.
The main reason to stop here is to visit the Parque Nacional Lihue Calel www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar . Closer however, is the Parque Luro www.parqueluro.gov.ar, 2 buses a day from Santa Rosa, 32 km south of Santa Rosa, which covers over 6500 ha. This provincial park occupies the former estate of Pedro Luro , who created his own hunting grounds for aristocratic friends visiting from Europe, introducing red deer and wild boar, running wild in the park, with many species of birds. Luro's mansion, a French-style chateau, has been turned into a museum, and opposite is a Centro de Interpretación Ecológico, with displays on the flora and fauna of the Pampas.
The Lihue Calel National Park is situated 240 km southwest of Santa Rosa and 120 km from General Acha, The name derives from the Mapuche for 'place of life', and you can understand why when you see its low vegetated hills rising out of rather arid desert. Its microclimate allows it to support a wide variety of plant species, including a number of unique species of cactus in its rocky terrain. Wildlife includes pumas, but you're more likely to spot maras (Patagonian hare), vizcachas, guanacos and rheas as well as a wide variety of birds. The area was home to various groups of indigenous people 2000 years ago; there are geometric cave paintings in the Valle de las Pinturas and the Valle de Namuncurá, seen on one of two self-guided trails through the park. The other trail, El Huitru, climbs the highest hill in the park and explores some of its amazing flora. The park is best visited in spring.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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