A Glimpse of Andalucia

Tom Mellors shares his passion for Andalucia in this overview of what the region has to offer.

Travel around Andalucia and it will feel like you are going from one movie set to another. In Almería, the desert-like badlands – filming location of the Spaghetti western films – stretch inland from the coast. Olive groves dominate the rolling hills of Jaen, while Moorish architecture graces the cities of Sevilla, Córdoba and Granada.

As one of Europe’s sunniest regions, Andalucia is a favourite destination for sun worshipers. If you are looking for a bright and dry winter you will not be disappointed. Add to that an average daytime temperature of 16°C inland (the coast is even warmer) and you'll understand why this part of Spain is popular year-round. Despite the cooler temperatures in winter the locals still practise Spain’s most famous custom: the siesta. A modest nap of 2 hours will leave you refreshed and buzzing, ready to continue sightseeing or to hit a tapas bar for a drink.

Spain’s Mediterranean coast is famous for its lively nightlife – regardless of the time of year. The Costa del Sol is warmer than inland Andalucía during the winter, thanks to the sea breeze coming off the Mediterranean. Many travellers flock here to escape the cold; some never go back. This is most obvious in the large numbers of Northern Europeans who, along with other travellers, ensure that the coastline heaves with people from all over the world.

The more sophisticated traveller should not be put off by the Costa del Sol's touristy reputation. Malaga for example, as well as having a lively nightlife, is also home to the excellent Picasso Museum and some of Andalucia’s best tapas. Even Andalucíans who are otherwise scathing of Malaga – for its hyped up tourist trade – admit that the city has some of the best seafood in the south of Spain.

If you are into water sports then the Atlantic coast is the place to go. Cádiz and Tarifa are two popular destinations for surfing and kitesurfing. Stick to the coast however, and you will only see the Andalucia of postcards: sparkling beaches packed with people and flanked by high-rise hotels. Journey inland and you will see Andalucia as it has been for centuries.

Historically, the three most important cities to see are Granada, Córdoba and Sevilla. These cities are colder than the coast in winter but are worth visiting. Overlooked by the Sierra Nevada, Granada is famed for the breathtaking Alhambra Palace and the enchanting streets of the Albayzín. This is a city which holds on to old ways. Granada was once the last outpost of Moorish Spain and is now one of the last cities to still give away free tapas with every drink.

Córdoba boasts the imposing Mezquita, the city’s ancient mosque. As you walk through the cool stone interior you will be transported back to a time when Moorish Spain was at the peak of its power. Sevilla is the capital of Andalucia and is home to the largest gothic cathedral in the world, as well as the Real Alcázar – a sumptuous palace built to look like the Alhambra and which arguably surpasses it in beauty.

There are parts of Andalucia where it feels like time has stood still. If you enjoy travelling off the beaten track, there are dozens of remote towns where you can get a glimpse of a disappearing rural lifestyle, a way of life that has already vanished in most of Western Europe.

In the Alpujarras, near Granada, clusters of villages hug the southern edge of the Sierra Nevada. The three most beautiful villages in the area are Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira. All three are made up of whitewashed buildings and provide the perfect location for hiking, horse trekking and canyoning. Don’t be surprised to see goats being herded through the streets of the villages; despite its popularity with tourists, the Alpujarras remains an important region in terms of agriculture.

Winter is a great time to visit Andalucia, especially during the run up to Christmas. If you plan on going this December, make sure you're in Sevilla for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception (8 December), when groups of minstrels walk around the streets playing music. Throughout Advent Spanish cities hold fantastic Christmas fairs selling everything from churros - a kind of Spanish doughnut eaten with very thick hot chocolate - to the most intricate, lifelike and bizarre nativity sets you can imagine.

Inspired to travel? Check out our Andalucia Handbook.