The Urumbamba Valley listings

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Carretera Ruinas Km 1.5, T084-203064, www.royalinkahotel.com/ hpisac.html. In the same chain as the

and

in Cuzco, this hotel can be reached by the hotels' own bus service. It is a short distance out of town, on the road that goes up to the ruins, a taxi ride after dark. Price includes taxes and breakfast. Camping is available for US$5 per person. A guide for the ruins can be provided. The rooms are comfortable, in a number of blocks in the grounds of a converted hacienda. There is a pool, sauna and jacuzzi (US$7), tennis court, horse riding and bicycle rental. The restaurant is good and there is a bar. The hotel is popular with day-trippers from Cuzco. Staff are very helpful and accommodating.

, T084-203204, www.pazyluzperu.com. 10-15 mins' walk from Pisac Plaza, close to the river. American expat Diane Dunn owns this hotel with a pleasant garden, nicely designed rooms, all with private bath and breakfast included in the price. Good place to chill and admire the rural surroundings and impressive mountain landscapes that rise dramatically above Pisac. Diane also offers healing from many traditions (including Andean), sacred tours, workshops and gatherings. Recommended.

, at the corner of Pardo on the Plaza, T084-203062, www.hotelpisaq.com. Bright and charming local decor and a pleasant atmosphere, with private and shared bathrooms, hot water, sauna and massage. Good breakfast, basic, clean and friendly. The restaurant serves meals using local ingredients, some nights pizza is served, café.

, Intihuatana 642, 50 m up the hill from the plaza, T/F084-203001. Ask for a room in the main building. They serve a good breakfast for US$1. The

has a shop selling local handicrafts including masks. The owner's son will act as a guide to the ruins at the weekend.

, on the plaza, T084-203061. Price per person. All rooms share bathrooms, which have hot water. Breakfast not included, but the restaurant serves other meals.

, in the hamlet of Higuspurco, between Urubamba and Yukay, www.inkaterra.com. Price is per person in one of two self-contained villas in spacious gardens, fully-equipped, breakfast and dinner included, lunch optional, courtesy bottle of wine. Has a bar, access to excursions and activities with car and driver available.

, Huarán, Calca, T084-251563, www.urubamba boutiquelodge.com, or www.pebhl.com. Brand-new hotel in the same group as the Casa San Blas in the city. All rooms with bath and balconies,

restaurant, travel and medical assistance.

, Plaza Manco II de Yucay 123, Yucay, T084-201107, www.sonestaperu.com. A converted 300-year-old monastery is now a hotel that is like a little village with plazas, lovely gardens, a chapel and 69 comfortable, heated rooms. The price includes buffet breakfast, but not taxes. The restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch. Lots of activities can be arranged - canoeing, horse riding, mountain biking, etc. There is a conference centre. Highly recommended. Also have hotels in Lima, Cuzco, Puno and Arequipa - central address for contacting all properties: Pancho Fierro 194 San Isidro, Lima, T01-712 6060.

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Plaza Manco II 104, Yucay, T084-201116, www.cusco.net/casona yucay/index.htm. Colonial house where Simón Bolívar stayed during his liberation campaign in 1824. The price includes taxes and breakfast. The rooms have heating and, outside, there are 2 patios and gardens.

restaurant is good, also has bar. Helpful staff.

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Plaza Manco II, Yucay, T084-201112, www.reservasperu.com/ hostalyllary/. A hostal in a remodelled building fronting the plaza, with gardens. Price includes bathroom and breakfast, nice garden.

, 5º paradero, Yanahuara, T084-984 613316, www.libertador.com. Affiliated to the Libertador group, a colonial-style hotel with 16 rooms in extensive grounds. Libertador's

in Urubamba is under renovation, 2008.

, west of town, T084-201620, www.hotelsolyluna.com. Attractive bungalows set off the main road in lovely gardens, pool, excellent buffet in restaurant, French-Swiss owned. Has

adventure travel agency, for horse riding, mountain biking, trekking and paragliding, www.aventurasvientosur.com.

, 5º paradero, Yanahuara, between Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, T084-946 765501, www.casa-andina.com. In

its own 3-ha estate, with all the facilities associated with this chain, plus a gym, organic garden and restaurant with

cuisine. Adventure activities can be arranged here. It also has a spa offering a range of massages and treatments and a planetarium and observatory, showing the Inca view of the night sky (US$10).

, Km 73.5 on the road to Ollantaytambo, 3 km from town, T084-201169, www.urubamba.com. 6 cottages for rent with 2 bedrooms, fully equipped, fireplace, terrace and balcony, surrounded by gardens. Price is for 1-2 people, each house can accommodate 6.

, Jr Recoleta s/n, T084-201004, recoleta@ hotelessanagustin.com.pe. In a converted monastery (the earliest in Cuzco), this new hotel has suites and standard rooms with heating and all facilities,

restaurant.

, Ctra Cuzco- Pisac Km 69, T084-201444, urubamba@ hotelessanagustin.com.pe. An upgraded hotel in a lovely setting just out of Urubamba, with suites and standard rooms, pool, sauna, massage and jacuzzi,

restaurant and bar.

, Zavala 307, T084-201006. Beautiful gardens, rooms with hot water, welcoming hosts. Recommended.

, Jr Convención 459, T084-201331, www.machawasi.com. An attractive guesthouse with comfortable rooms, non-smoking, delicious breakfast extra (vegans catered for), safe, lovely garden, laundry. Sacred Valley Mountain Bike Tours also based here.

, 3 km west of town in the Pumahuanca Valley, T084-201568, www.uhupi.com/chullpas. Price per person. Very peaceful, includes excellent breakfast, vegetarian meals, English and German spoken, Spanish classes, natural medicine, treks, horse riding, mountain biking, camping US$3 with hot shower. Mototaxi from town US$0.85, taxi (ask for Querocancha) US$2.

, Bolognesi 605. Basic but pleasant rooms with bath and cold water, cheaper without bath.

, 9 de Noviembre, T084-201135. Price is per bed, without bath, but shared bathrooms have hot water; some rooms are even cheaper.

, T084-306031, www.lacasadebarro.net. New, modern hotel, price includes American breakfast, with hot water, bar, restaurant, tours arranged.

, C Ferrocarril s/n, T084- 204020, www.pakaritampu.com. The price includes breakfast and taxes. This modern, 3-star hotel has 20 rooms with bath and views. It is owned by a former Peruvian women's volleyball star. There is a TV room, restaurant and bar, internet service for guests, laundry, safe and room service. Adventure sports such as rafting, climbing, trekking, mountain biking and horse riding can be arranged. Meals are extra: buffet US$20, dinner US$17. Excellent quality and service.

, within the railway station gates, T084-204014, www. elalbergue.com. Owned by North American Wendy Weeks, the

albergue

has 8 rooms with shared bathrooms. Price (per person) includes breakfast; full dinner US$10 on request. The rooms are full of character and are set in buildings around a courtyard and lovely gardens. Great showers (24 hrs a day) and a eucalyptus steam sauna (US$5). The whole place is charming, relaxing and homely. Also for sale is Wendy's digestif,

. It's very convenient for the Machu Picchu train and a good place for information. Private transport can be arranged to the salt mines, Moray, Abra Málaga for birdwatching and taxi transfers to the airport. Highly recommended.

, 5 km west of Ollantaytambo, just before Chillca and the start of the Inca Trail, T01-275 0706, www.nustayoclodge.com. Large and somewhat rambling lodge in a wonderful location with great views of the snowy Verónica massif and other peaks. There's a lovely flower-filled garden and grounds. Nicely decorated, spacious rooms, all with private bath. Price includes continental breakfast served in the large restaurant area.

, Av Ferrocarril 118, on the road to the station, T084-204111, www.munaytika.com. Price includes breakfast and bath. Dinner is served by arrangement. Sauna costs US$5 with prior notice. Also has a nice garden. Recommended. It also has a complex of beautiful cabins (

), 2 km west of town (mototaxi US$0.60), set among extensive flower beds and with wonderful views down the valley. Ask at the hotel.

, between the main plaza and the ruins, T084-204091, www.kbperu.com. Spacious, comfortable rooms, cheaper without bath, also has budget lodging (

), hot water, flower-filled garden, very good restaurant (

). Also offers adventure tours.

, at the end of the station road, T084-204017. Prices are lower in the off season. A quiet place with spacious rooms, some with and some without bath. The garden is nice and the price includes a good continental breakfast.

, C Ocobamba, T084- 204035. Ask about accommodation in the shop/restaurant of the same name on the plaza. This is a decent although uninspiring budget option. Proprietor Rubén Ponce loves to share his knowledge of the ruins with guests. You get a good view of the ruins from the balcony.

, just walk up the street called Lari that heads north from the plaza, T084-204003. After 20 m or so you'll see an unmarked blue door on the left-hand side - bang on it! If this doesn't work keep walking, turn left down the first small alley and bang on that blue door instead! Once past this unassuming exterior you emerge into a mini Garden of Eden, full of fruit trees, flowers, dogs, cats and domesticated parrots in the trees. There are only 3 basic rooms (shared bath, some hot water), but the family is very friendly and the Señora is a character.

, near start of the road to the station, T084-204032. A good choice. Price includes breakfast, and meals are available; may be used by tour groups.

, Chaupicalle (also C Taypi) north of the plaza, T084-208085, katycusco@yahoo.es. A

snuggled away in the small alleys behind the plaza. Owner Anna is very friendly.

, on the south side of the plaza, T084-204116. Basic and clean, but with a great location. All rooms with shared bath.

, just below the main plaza in town, T084-204113. Very clean and friendly with safe motorcycle parking. They have a TV in the front room for guests and one of the rooms features a wonderful view of the ruins with the Nevado de Verónica framed perfectly behind - a wonderful sight to wake up to in the morning. Recommended.

, on the Plaza de Armas, T084-203266. Serves very tasty local food, typical and

, also international dishes. Has a

also.

, Mcal Castilla 375, T084-208182. Tue-Sun 0900-1900. Café/restaurant related to the Mullu store in Cuzco, also has a gallery promoting local artists.

, on the plaza opposite the church. A very friendly place. It doesn't look very inviting but cooks tasty food, including vegetarian options.

, Av Mcal Castilla 372, sells excellent cheese-and-onion

empanadas

for US$0.25, suitable for vegetarians, and good wholemeal bread. The oven is tremendous.

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Plaza de Armas 828, T084- 203195, ulrikescafe@terra.com.pe. This comfortable café is renowned for its apple crumble with ice cream, to say nothing of great coffee, smoothies and a wide range of international cuisine. A good place to chill after a hard day exploring the market and ruins.

, Km 77, on left side of the road on the riverbank, in a renovated colonial hacienda (same ownership as Tunupa in Cuzco), zappa@terra.com.pe. Excellent food served indoors or outdoors, bar, lounge, library, chapel, gardens, stables and an alpaca-jewellery shop. Outstanding exhibition of pre-Columbian objects and colonial paintings.

's ceramics feature in the decor. People on valley tours are served a varied buffet including

cuisine; buffet lunch US$15, 1200-1500. Dinner (1800-2030) is à la carte.

, Parque Pintacha, T084-201534. Traditional Peruvian food, large servings, nice atmosphere. Recommended.

, on the road before the bridge, T084-201454. Country-style restaurant with a good reputation, buffet service with a variety of typical

dishes, plus international choices, beautiful gardens with native flowers and fruit trees. Recommended (they also have a hotel of the same name).

, Bolívar 272, 2 blocks up from the Plaza de Armas, T084-622975. Excellent restaurant with rooms grouped around a small courtyard. The trout is fantastic and food is served with baskets of roasted potatoes and salad. Recommended.

, on the main road before the bridge, T084-201043. Regional dishes, excellent lunch with more than enough food, average price US$13.

, Bolognesi 523. Pub/café serving sandwiches, burgers, coffees, teas and drinks. Games and book exchange, cosy, open late.

, Av Mcal Castilla, 2nd block. Pizzas, excellent spinach ravioli (not so good lasagne). Mulled wine served in a small restaurant with nice decor. Clean, good value. Recommended.

, 2 branches, one on Plaza Ruinas, the other on north side of the main plaza. Basic but good food, breakfasts, pizza and pasta - all the gringo favourites are on offer, as well as some more local dishes.

, on Plaza de Armas, T084- 204078, www.heartscafe.org. Wholefood restaurant serving western and Asian dishes,

, just before the bridge on the right-hand side. Offers the best cappuccino in town, great coffee generally, also café latte and espresso. Good continental and American breakfasts. Slightly more sophisticated ambience and service in comparison with many other establishments in town. Also run

, Plaza Ruinas, for pizza, pasta and good coffee.

, Jr Convención s/n, across the bridge on the way to the ruins, on the left, T084-204083 (Cuzco). Serving international choices and a selection of Peruvian dishes, desserts, sandwiches and coffee. It opens at 0600 for breakfast, and serves lunch and dinner. The bar has a fireplace; river view, relaxing atmosphere.

, C del Medio s/n, 50 m from the plaza, T084-204034, alcazar@ollantay tambo.org. Vegetarian restaurant, also offering fish and meat dishes, pasta specialities. Offers excursions to traditional Andean communities.

, on the plaza, same owner as

. Popular, good food, snacks available.

A local fiesta in Pisac.

, Coya.

Lamay hosts a festival.

, with many processions following mysterious ancient schedules.

Urubamba's main festival,

.

(the Magi), with traditional dancing, a bull fight, local food and a fair.

, 50 days after Easter, is the

, patron saint of Ollantaytambo. There are several days of dancing, weddings, processions, masses, feasting and drinking (the last opportunity to see traditional

dancing).

Following

in Cuzco, there is a colourful festival, the

, at which the Quechua drama,

, is re-enacted.

, a festival with dancing in traditional costume and many local delicacies for sale.

, Casa de ProPerú, Jr Rejachayoc, Urubamba, T084-201562, www.agrotourismsacredvalley.com. A community tourism project that lets visitors take part in a number of traditional activities (culinary, horticulture, textiles, ceramics, beekeeping, etc, US$3 per person, cheaper for groups), hiking US$10, lodging (

) and local meals. It's about 10 mins' walk from Urubamba; follow the signs.

, contact Javier Saldívar or Yeral Quillahuman, T084-984 613001 (mob). A cooperative tourism project in the Chicón valley (the mountain valley above Urubamba), run by residents of the community. 3 different hiking trips are offered: two 1-day hiking options (US$20 per person including food and accommodation) and a third, 2-day hike up to the Chicón Glacier itself (US$45 all inclusive). Hikes are based at a simple, but beautifully located eco-lodge in the valley and profits are used to fund reforestation of native forest in the area.

, Av Convención 210, Urubamba, T084-401395, 084-984 698232 (mob), www.perualive.com. Agency run by the group

for treks such as Choquequirao, small, good value, all proceeds go to local people.

From C Puputi on the outskirts of Cuzco, near the Clorindo Matto de Turner school and Av de la Cultura. 32 km, 1 hr, US$0.85.

, minibuses and buses leave when full, between 0600 and 1600; also trucks and pickups. Buses returning from Pisac are often full. The last one back leaves around 2000. Taxis charge about US$20 for the round trip. To

,

(18 km beyond Pisac) and

, buses leave from Av Tullumayo 800 block, Huanchac, US$1.

The bus and combi terminal is just west of town on the main road. To

,

(US$0.80, 1 hr) and

(2 hrs, US$1), from 0530 onwards. Also buses to Cuzco via

, same fare.

to

can be caught outside the terminal and on the main road, US$1.15. Combis run to

, 45 mins, US$0.30. There are also buses from here to

.

Combis and

for Chinchero leave from 300 block of Av Grau,

, 1 block before crossing the bridge. 23 km, 45 mins, US$0.45; and for

a further 25 km, 45 mins, US$0.45 (or US$1 Cuzco-Urubamba direct, US$1.15 for a seat in a

).

There is public transport from Chinchero to Maras and regular pickup trucks that carry people and produce in and out. Transport stops running between 1700 and 1800; it costs between US$0.60 and US$1. If you cannot get transport to Maras, take any combi going between Urubamba and Chinchero, get out at the junction for Maras and walk from there. It's 4 km to Maras; once through the village, bear left a little, and ask directions to Moray. Hitching back to

is quite easy, but there are no hotels at all in the area, so take care not to be stranded.

wait at the Maras/Moray junction on the Urubamba/ Chinchero road. They charge US$20 to go to Salinas and then on to Moray, with a 1 hr wait at each.

There is a direct bus service to Ollantaytambo from Av Grau,

, at 0745 and 1945 direct (or catch a bus to Urubamba from Av Grau). From Ollantaytambo to Cuzco at 0715 and 1945; the fare is US$2.85.

The station is 10-15 mins' walk from the plaza (turn left at the sign that says 'Centro de Salud' between the Plaza de Armas and the ruins). There are

at the plaza for the station when trains are due. Also, a bus leaves the station at 0900 for

(US$0.30) and

(US$1).

If you need to change money, there is a shop on M Castilla, heading away from the plaza, near where the road bends; it will change TCs.

On the same side of the plaza as the museum is the municipal building with a computer centre (internet for US$0.75 per hr, closed Sun morning); also a public phone booth.

In

, the municipal library has internet connection. In

, there are several places.

Banks in the town centre on Comercio. ATM on the main road not far from the bridge.

, corner of Av M Castilla and Av La Convención.

, post office, Plaza de Armas.

There are several phone booths around the centre. The one outside

makes international calls.

ATM at C Ventiderio 248, between the Plaza and Av Ferrocarril.

Several places in town, US$0.30 for 30 mins.