Varanasi

The city's focus extends from Raj Ghat in the north, to Assi Ghat in the south. At dawn the riverbank's stone steps begin to hum with activity. Early risers immerse themselves in the water as they face the rising sun, boatmen wait expectantly on the waterside, pilgrims flock to the temples, flower sellers do brisk business, astrologers prepare to read palms and horoscopes while families carry the dead to their last rites by the holy river. A few steps away from the ghats, motorbikers speed through the lanes past wandering sadhus, hopeful beggars, curious visitors and wandering cows, while packs of stray dogs scavenge among the piles of rubbish.

The Gyan Kup (Well of Knowledge) next door is said to contain the Siva lingam from the original temple - the well is protected by a stone screen and canopy. The Gyanvapi Mosque (Great Mosque of Aurangzeb), with 71-m-high minarets, shows evidence of the original Hindu temple, in the foundations, the columns and at the rear.

The 17th-century Alamgir Mosque (Beni Madhav ka Darera), impressively situated on Panchganga Ghat, was Aurangzeb's smaller mosque. It was built on the original Vishnu temple of the Marathas, parts of which were used in its construction. Two minarets are missing - one fell and killed some people and the other was taken down by the government as a precaution. You can climb to the top of the mosque for fantastic views (donation expected); again, bags are prohibited and you may be searched.

The Bhelupura Temple with a museum marks the birthplace of the 23rd Jain Tirthankar Parsvanath who preached non-violence. The Durga Temple (18th-century) to the south along Durga Kund Road, was built in the Nagara style. It is painted red with ochre and has the typical five spires (symbolizing the elements) merging into one (Brahma). Non-Hindus may view from the rooftop nearby. Next door in a peaceful garden, the Tulsi Manas Temple (1964) in white marble commemorates the medieval poet Tulsi Das. It has walls engraved with verses and scenes from the Ramcharitmanas, composed in a Hindi dialect, instead of the conventional Sanskrit, and is open to all. Good views from the second floor of 'Disneyland-style' animated show. Bharat Mata Temple, south of Varanasi Junction Station, has a relief map of 'Mother India' in marble.

Narad Ghat and Chauki Ghat are held sacred since the Buddha received enlightenment here under a peepul tree. Those who bathe together at Narad, supposedly go home and quarrel! The pink water tower here is for storing Ganga water. High water levels are recorded at Raj Ghat. The flood levels are difficult to imagine when the river is at its lowest in January and February. Mansarovar Ghat leads to ruins of several temples around a lake. Kedar Ghat is named after Kedarnath, a pilgrimage site in the Uttarakhand, with a Bengali temple nearby.

The Harishchandra Ghat is particularly holy and is dedicated to King Harishchandra. It is now the most sacred smashan or cremation ghat although Manikarnika is more popular. Behind the ghat is a gopuram of a Dravidian-style temple. The Karnataka Ghat is one of many regional ghats which are attended by priests who know the local languages, castes, customs and festivals.

The Hanuman Ghat is where Vallabha, the leader of a revivalist Krishna bhakti cult was born in the late 15th century. Shivala Ghat (Kali Ghat) is privately owned by the ex-ruler of Varanasi. Chet Singh's Fort, Shivala, stands behind the ghat. The fort, the old palace of the Maharajas, is where the British imprisoned him but he escaped by climbing down to the river and swimming away. Anandamayi Ghat is named after the Bengali saint Anandamayi Ma (died 1982) who received 'enlightenment' at 17 and spent her life teaching and in charitable work. Jain Ghat is near the birthplace of Tirthankar Shyeyanshnath. Tulsi Ghat commemorates the great saint-poet Tulsi Das who lived here . Furthest upstream is the Assi Ghat, where the River Assi meets the Ganga, one of the five that pilgrims should bathe from in a day. The order is Assi, Dasasvamedha, Barnasangam, Panchganga and Manikarnika. Upstream on the east bank is the Ramnagar Fort, the Maharaja of Varanasi's residence . Here the boat will turn to take you back to Dasasvamedha Ghat.

The Dom Raja's House is next door, flanked by painted tigers. The doms are the 'Untouchables' of Varanasi and are integral to the cremation ceremony. As Untouchables they can handle the corpse, a ritually polluting act for Hindus. They also supply the flame from the temple for the funeral pyre. Their presence is essential and also lucrative since there are fees for the various services they provide. The Dom Raja is the hereditary title of the leader of these Untouchables. You can climb up through the astronomical observatory (which is overrun by monkeys) to the Raja Dom's Palace - a guide will take you round the court room, and on to the roof which has the best view of the river.

Mir Ghat leads to a sacred well; widows who dedicate themselves to prayer, are fed and clothed here. Then comes Lalita Ghat with the distinctive Nepalese-style temple with a golden roof above and a Ganga mandir at water level. Above Manikarnika Ghat is a well into which Siva's dead wife Sati's earring is supposed to have fallen when Siva was carrying her after she committed suicide . The Brahmins managed to find the jewel from the earring (manikarnika) and returned it to Siva who blessed the place. Offerings of bilva flowers, milk, sandalwood and sweetmeats are thrown into the tank where pilgrims come to bathe. Between the well and the ghat is Charanpaduka, a stone slab with Vishnu's footprint. Boatmen may try to persuade you to leave a 'private' offering to perform a puja (a ploy to increasing their earnings).

The adjoining Jalasayin Ghat is the principal burning ghat of the city. The expensive scented sandalwood which the rich alone can afford is used sparingly; usually not more than 2 kg. You may see floating bundles covered in white cloth; children, and those dying of 'high fever', or smallpox in the past, are not cremated but put into the river. This avoids injuring Sitala the goddess of smallpox.

Scindia Ghat, originally built in 1830, was so large that it collapsed. Ram Ghat was built by the Maharaja of Jaipur. Five rivers are supposed to meet at the magnificent Panchganga Ghat - the Ganga, Sarasvati, Gyana, Kirana and Dhutpapa. The stone column can hold around 1000 lamps at festivals. The impressive flights of stone steps run up to the Alamgir Mosque . At Gai Ghat there is a statue of a sacred cow whilst at Trilochana Ghat there is a temple to Siva in his form as the 'Three-eyed' (Trilochana); two turrets stand out of the water. Raj Ghat is the last on the boat journey. Excavations have revealed a site of a city from the eighth century BC on a grassy mound nearby. Raj Ghat was where the river was forded until bridges were built.

Banaras Hindu University (BHU), to the south of the city, is one of the largest campus universities in India and enjoys a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere. Founded at the turn of the 19th century, it was originally intended for the study of Sanskrit, Indian art, music and culture. The New Visvanath Temple (1966), one of the tallest in India, is in the university semicircle and was financed by the Birla family. It was planned by Madan Mohan Malaviya (1862-1942), chancellor of the university, who believed in Hinduism without caste distinctions. The marble Siva temple modelled on the old Visvanath Temple, is open to all.

Across the river in a dramatic setting on the edge of narrow crowded streets is the run-down 17th-century Ramnagar Fort, the former home of the Maharaja of Varanasi. The museum has palanquins, elephant howdahs and headdresses, costumes, arms and furniture gathering dust. Look out for the amazing locally made astrological clock and peer inside the impressive Durbar Hall, cunning designed to remain cool in the summer heat, with lifesize portraits lining one wall. Nearby Ramnagar village has Ramlila performances during Dasara (October to November) and has some quieter backalleys which make for a relaxing hours wandering.