Syria

Sitting on the crossroads between, Syria is tipped to be a top destination for the summer of 2010. Having travelled extensively through the country to write the first edition of Footprint's Syria Handbook, we thought Jessica Lee would be the perfect person to introduce us to this grand country.

Syria - sneaking up the traveller's wishlist

Check the reserved attitude at the door. The only way to really experience Syria is by becoming part of its crazy, colourful circus rather than just an observer. Something of a sensory overload, Syria manages to encapsulate the timeworn mystique of the orient without looking like a museum piece that’s slowly gathering dust.

It will be the vibrancy here that slowly seduces you. The vendor, on his motorbike, that drives straight up the colonnaded street of Palmyra’s ruins to try and flog you a scarf; the university students who crowd into Krak des Chevaliers for their day trip to beat their drums on the ramparts; the blinding marble courtyard of the Umayyad Mosque where children play hide and seek among the pillars. You will soon come to the realisation that this is a nation comfortable with its antique heritage; never locking it away just for special occasions. 

And with this much history, no wonder the Syrians are so relaxed about it. When it comes to ruins and monuments, Syria definitely plays at the high-rollers table. This patch of land has been hungered over for millennia and everybody has left their mark. From half-forgotten and weed-filled ruins to the big guns of Krak des Chevaliers and Palmyra, Syria offers up an empirical feast for those hungry to step back in time.

Damascus and Aleppo both vie for the title of longest continuously inhabited city in the world. Their modern districts may have long ago spilled out of the walled enclaves, to spread helter-skelter across the surrounding countryside, but inside the Old Cities it is still the bustle of a medieval market, just with motorbikes added to the mayhem. The best way to explore here is to chuck away your map and wander aimlessly, submitting yourself to whatever you stumble upon next. These days that could be anything from a centuries-old khan to a European-style cafe offering latte and espresso as well as narghile.

Palmyra and Krak des Chevaliers are at the top of every visitor’s wish list, and for good reason. Palmyra’s ruins lie abandoned amid a stark desert plateau. This once great caravan city of vast temples and civic buildings now sits mournfully, half covered by sand. Perched on a hill in the lush Jebel Ansariye, Krak des Chevaliers is a fairytale-style castle that lords it up over the surrounding countryside and once played host to the knights Hospitallers. But for many travellers the rest of Syria comes as a surprise. Apamea’s long colonnaded street leading to nowhere, the spooky tumbledown Byzantine ghost towns of the Dead Cities, Rasafeh’s slumping desert ruins, and the audacious mountain-top position of Qala’at Salah ud-Din are just a few of the many highlights.

It is often when you seek out the smaller sites, or abandon yourself to Syria’s slightly crazy way of doing things, that you’ll make your fondest memories. I remember sitting on the walls of Qasr al-Heir al-Sharki, with a gritty desert wind stinging my face. Marvelling at the fact that in any other country this imposing citadel would be crammed full of tour-buses. Yet I was the only soul there.  I recall fighting my way through the scrum of shoppers bargaining over frilly underwear on the cobblestones of Hamidiyeh Souq. Only to lose my balance and reel into the monstrous beady eye of a stuffed eagle held aloft by a bulbous-nosed vendor, who waggled the bird’s mottled wings and winked salaciously. Smiling mothers plonking babies in my lap on microbuses crammed so tight I could barely breathe; smoking narghile on the banks of the river Orontes, with the norias of Hama croaking and wheezing as my soundtrack. I remember reaching the lonely Byzantine complex of Qasr Ibn Warden at sunset, only to find it locked.  Searching out the site guardian Abdullah, who came roaring up to the ruin with the keys, brewed a cup of tea and then gave me a personal tour of the site.

Abdullah hasn’t been the only Syrian to go out of his way for the sake of a visitor. For with all the talk of lavish architecture, vast ruins and crumbling castles, most of all Syria is about the people. Intensely curious, and overly concerned with hospitality, Syrians have a warm and welcoming attitude to visitors that few countries can boast these days. Easily the friendliest in the Middle East (if not the world), the Syrians with their endless cups of tea and ready smiles are this country’s biggest asset. And I’m not talking about those cynical, this is the fiftieth tour bus for the day smirks; but beaming, wide-open, come to my house and meet my family grins that dazzle you long after you’ve left.  It’s pretty hard to out-star Syria’s architectural and historical attractions, but the Syrian people themselves manage to do it every time.

Some practicalities to get you started ...

Money

The sprouting of ATMs which accept foreign cards in all the main cities has made travelling here a much easier prospect. The days of carrying huge wads of cash into the country are now long gone. Don’t get too optimistic and depend solely on your little plastic friend though. It’s always a good idea to have some USD or Euro on you for the sometimes rather numerous occasions when your card won’t work.

Food

Syrian cuisine is a delight for your taste-buds and a foodie’s dream. Even better, eating out at a posh restaurant is ridiculously cheap compared to in Europe or the USA. An incredible meal at a top restaurant in Damascus, where you may find yourself dining in an old Ottoman palace, is unlikely to set you back more than USD$20. Even if you’re on a budget it’s worth treating yourself to a few good meals now and then because it’s such good value compared to at home.

On menus look out for everyone’s favourite mezze staples baba ganoush and hummus, which nearly every restaurant makes to their own special recipe ensuring a different taste sensation each time. Kibbeh is deep-fried balls of ground lamb and bulgar that probably aren’t any good for your cholesterol levels but are divinely delicious all the same. My favourite meal whenever I’m in Syria is the Aleppine speciality, cherry kebab; a ridiculously rich mixture of kofte balls drenched in a decadent cherry sauce.

Out on the street, you just need to follow your nose to the nearest bakery or falafel/shawarma stand to eat cheaply. Whatever you do don’t miss trying mannoushi zaatar; thin pizzas topped with thyme and sumac, which are tremendously addictive.

Transport

In general the public transport system is really good with lots of a/c buses whizzing between the main towns. The train system has recently been upgraded as well making travel this way a viable option on some legs of your journey. Smaller towns are linked by hilarious clapped-out microbuses on which journeys can be an experience within themselves. There are some more out-of-the-way sites that unfortunately aren’t serviced by public transport and are best reached by hiring a driver/car. This is especially true of sites east of Palmyra (Qasr al-Sharqi, Rasafeh) and the Dead Cities south of Aleppo.

Accommodation

Your biggest expense will be accommodation. If cost isn’t a worry there are some absolutely sumptuous places to rest your head in Damascus and Aleppo now. Gorgeously restored houses in the Old Cities have been turned into atmospheric boutique hotels; a wonderful, and unique, alternative to the big chain hotels. Mid-range hotels are a mixed bag as are budget places. There are some fantastic places in Damascus, Aleppo and Hama, but away from these three main tourist centres you can stumble across some real dives. Checking the room before committing yourself is a good rule of thumb (and could save you a terrible night’s sleep).

Jessica Lee’s new book, Syria is available now.