South of Damascus: The Hauran

The Hauran, with its stark landscape of flat plateau and black basalt stone, is the southern gateway into Syria. If you're arriving from Jordan, the nondescript plains rolling onward for miles beside the highway will be your first impression of this region, but away from the main road artery the Hauran has its own, if rather austere, beauty. The Leja, in the centre of the region, is a broodingly dramatic landscape created by an immense sheet of lava, while between Bosra and Deraa is the particularly fertile Nuqra plain with its fields golden with wheat and barley in spring.

Historically a border region, marking the edge of Rome's eastern empire, the Hauran has played an important role throughout history. Bosra, with its ruins that stretch back to Nabatean times and its massive Roman theatre, is an obvious highlight, but among the other small towns there are more historical gems to be found. Shahba (ancient Philippopolis) was the birthplace of Philip the Arab, the local boy who rose to Roman emperor. Suweida has a small but stunning mosaic museum and Ezraa's church lays claim to be the resting place of St George. Most of the Hauran is within easy reach of Damascus, making exploring the sights here perfect for day trips from the city.