Palmyra and around

Without a doubt, Palmyra is Syria's number one attraction. After trundling through the desert plains for miles, the majestic remains of this ancient caravan town are suddenly stretched out before you, backed by the lush green palms of the oasis and the scruffy buildings of modern Tadmor.

Even as late as the 1920s the journey here was a long (five days or so) and arduous one, which required careful planning and usually an armed escort. Although the journey now involves no more than a comfortable cruise across the wide expanses of the Syrian desert in an air-conditioned coach, it is easy to understand why Palmyra, 'bride of the desert', still fires our imaginations.

Save your sightseeing for sunrise and sunset when the ruins are bathed in a golden light and the tour buses have disappeared for the day. Despite Palmyra's tourism boom, at these times it is still possible to be the only person wandering through the temples and remains of this once-mighty city. During the afternoon, when the heat descends over the desert like a blanket, and even the postcard hawkers slump asleep in the nearest shade, it's best to do as the locals do and take a siesta.