What makes Morocco so different from, say, Spain? In the travel brochures, it is a land peopled by men in flowing robes and camels, its cities full of winding streets, garden courtyards and banquets. It is an Islamic country - but the women (who do not feature in the brochures) are not on the whole veiled. Standing back from the bright postcards and garden courtyards, the Arab-Amazigh dichotomy, the clich├ęs about tolerance and eternal Moroccan civilization, what sort of a culture is this? What are its main architectural and material features? And, first of all, who are the Moroccans?

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