Surfing

Surfing

Tim Nunn

Perspective. We all know that a wave viewed from the shore looks very different when seen from the line-up. Similarly, the jostling pack of surfers bobbing way outside seems distant when separated from the land by fizzing lines of white water. They become a different entity when viewed from the paddle out - that last duck-dive bringing you into a whole new realm. Although our lifestyle has undergone a massive shift over the last ten years, surfing itself has still managed to remain fundamentally detached from everyday convention. We are not sitting on the margins, watching from a safe distance, but nor are we cut adrift, floating aimlessly. Surfing positions itself 'outside', just close enough to the mainstream to ride the odd wave of benefit, but not close enough so we end up stranded on the shore. Our line-up will always be dynamic, somewhere between the blue-black of the deep ocean and the white sand of the beach - where the magic happens, where the two worlds collide. Being a surfer is still about riding waves, just as it was back in the fifties when Europe first walked the board and just as it was when the original Waikiki beach boys rode those Hawaiian south shore peelers in the early 20th century. Surfers are still an outside set. For a surfer, waveriding is all about perspective, and the best view is always from outback.
This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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